Lizards like Chamillionaire, a veiled chameleon, need ultraviolet B light to produce the vitamin D needed for their intestines to absorb calcium.When Dr. La'Toya Latney first met Chamillionaire, the youngster was suffering from serious bone damage.
The 6-month-old veiled chameleon, a species native to Saudi Arabia and Yemen, had been relinquished by his owner at the veterinary hospital where Latney works in New York City. Chamillionaire hadn't been getting the right type of light, hindering his body's ability to absorb calcium.
"I adopted him from an owner who did not know better," Latney said.
In the hands of a more knowledgable owner, Chamillionaire lived to a respectable 4 years old. Now, a new rule in the United States has increased the chance that, even with owners who know better, numerous species of captive animals may not get the heat and light they need to be healthy.
A ban on inefficient "general service lamps" was announced by the U.S. Department of Energy in 2022 and went into effect on July 3 this year. The rule is intended to encourage the use of more efficient lighting sources, such as LED lamps, that are better for the environment.
The problem is that some of the banned bulbs emit a particular spectrum of light, ultraviolet B (UVB), that readily activates the production of vitamin D needed to facilitate calcium absorption in the intestines.
Calcium is a vital mineral for all animals, including humans, that's involved in bone structure, muscle contraction and several cellular processes.
"The ban should be a concern of animal caretakers for many species," said Latney, a senior veterinarian at the Schwarzman Animal Medical Center who also is chair of the Association for Reptile and Amphibian Veterinarians (ARAV). "This is particularly true for captive reptiles, amphibians, birds and mammal species that have limited exposure to natural, unfiltered sunlight."
In brief
* Veterinarians are warning that a ban introduced in the United States last month of certain inefficient light bulbs could harm pets with limited exposure to natural sunlight. The welfare of reptile and amphibian species is of particular concern.
* The ban encompasses UVB bulbs that help animals produce vitamin D needed to facilitate calcium absorption, and basking bulbs that warm ectothermic animals dependent on external heat sources.
* Legal alternative sources of heat and light, such as LED lamps and heating pads, are available, but none are ideal, practitioners maintain.
* A U.S. Department of Energy spokesperson said the agency is working with the American Veterinary Medical Association and the Association of Zoos and Aquariums "to find solutions to their needs."
Still, practitioners like Latney are especially concerned for reptile and amphibian species that are more dependent on artificial lighting and therefore overrepresented when it comes to calcium-related diseases.
Calcium production isn't their only concern. Reptiles and amphibians are ectothermic, meaning their body temperature depends on external heat sources. So-called basking bulbs that provide a controllable heat source, whether via ultraviolet A or infrared radiation, also have been caught up in the ban.
"The new rules could definitely negatively affect the welfare of a lot of animals in captivity," said Dr. Kimberlee Wojick, the director of veterinary services at Roger Williams Park Zoo in Rhode Island.
Although alert to the potential impact on the zoo's small reptile and amphibian collection, Wojick worries more about animals kept in people's homes.
"Professional places such as zoos and aquariums are going to be able to pivot and modify things a little bit more easily than a reptile hobbyist," Wojick said. "So I think the animals and the people that will suffer the most are just the regular consumers that would be buying these lamps and lights from pet stores."
Do legal alternatives exist?
A U.S. Department of Energy spokesperson told the VIN News Service that the agency is "actively working" with the American Veterinary Medical Association and the Association of Zoos and Aquariums "to find solutions to their needs" amid growing calls by veterinarians, zookeepers and pet owners for an exemption for animal husbandry.
Numerous alternative sources of heat and light remain available, but none are ideal, according to practitioners contacted by VIN News.
Whether heating, lighting or both are needed depends on the animal; some species are more sensitive to a lack of heat or UVB than others. Snakes, for example, typically don't require special UVB bulbs, just basking bulbs for warmth.
On the heating side, alternatives such as ceramic heating pads simply aren't as effective as basking bulbs, said Dr. Brad Lock, a reptile consultant for the Veterinary Information Network, an online community for the profession and parent of VIN News.
"Things like heat emitters, heat pads and radiant heat panels do not provide the best heat sources and are very drying to the animal and the enclosure environment," he said.
They can also cause injuries, according to Latney. "Heating pads have been reported to cause severe and even fatal thermal burns in reptiles," she said. "The hobbyist shift from heating pads to heating lamps occurred largely due to this continued welfare concern."
On the lighting side, alternative bulbs providing UVB for calcium absorption include LED lights and mercury vapor bulbs — the latter providing a combination of UVB and heat. But it's unclear whether LEDs, a relatively new technology, provide sufficient UVB for many species, Latney said, and mercury vapor bulbs could emit unhealthy levels of either UVB or heat.
"When heat and UVB emittance are coupled in the same unit, you lose the balance needed for species that may have inverse requirements for UVB exposure levels and environmental heat," Latney said, offering the example of leopard geckos suffering toxic reactions to extreme UVB exposure. Amphibians, for their part, have sensitive skin that puts them at more risk of overheating, especially if kept in small enclosures.
Wojick in Rhode Island agrees the bulb ban will make it harder for carers to mimic the natural sunlight conditions they're trying to recreate for their animals.
"We have such a wide variety of reptiles and amphibians that we're using these lights for," she said. "We really need to have a lot of tools in our arsenal, and having this big group of them suddenly taken away will have unintended consequences."
Animals could be exposed to natural light outdoors, but Latney cautions: "UVB radiation worldwide varies. For example, studies have shown that the amount of UVB exposure in North Carolina is not as strong as Northern Australia, so bearded dragons are at risk without additional UVB support …"
She also cautions against giving oral vitamin D supplements to herbivores and omnivores, "and honestly even some carnivores," explaining that even seemingly inoccuous over-the-counter products found in pet stores "can be dangerous if administered at unknown amounts to captive species."

An X-ray of Chamillionaire, taken when he was 6 months old, shows a severe reduction in bone density (osteopenia) and a folding fracture of his left femur, which healed in an abnormal position. The damage was caused by inadequate exposure to UV light.The clock is ticking
None of the sources contacted by VIN News told of any animals falling ill because of the bulb ban. That may be because the ban has been in place for fewer than two months, and the bulbs, depending on type and use, can last for three to six months, perhaps longer.
Moreover, animal owners and pet shops have been stockpiling bulbs, according to Phil Goss, president of the U.S. Association of Reptile Keepers (USARK), a nonprofit advocacy group. "I've heard stories of people buying as many cases as they could afford," he said.
Although the ban applies to the manufacture, distribution and sale of specified bulbs, Goss said the DOE doesn't appear to be taking an active enforcement approach — at least not yet — leaving room for pet shops to continue selling stock on hand. He said he's aware of at least one manufacturer that has stopped making the banned bulbs and entered into discussions with the DOE to push for an exemption for animal husbandry.
Bulb manufacturers in the U.S. include Zoo Med, Fluker's and Hagen, said Lock, the VIN reptile consultant. "I have been buying a lot of bulbs to have them in case this does actually start affecting availability," he said. "The prices, of course, have already started increasing."
Financial barriers may hamper keepers from obtaining alternative products. For instance, the compact incandescent UVB bulbs being banned cost roughly $20 to $30 each, compared with around $80 and upwards for LED UVB bulbs, Goss said. LEDs typically last longer and consume less electricity than incandescent lights, but Goss said their design is another concern.
"Compact [incandescent] bulbs spread light more widely because of the way they're made with the curved glass — they shoot UVB all over the place," he said. "The LEDs are more a focused-type bulb, so if you've got a bigger enclosure you might need three or four LED bulbs, and then your expense is going up almost 20 times."
Goss also worries about fire hazards, should animal owners start running multiple electrical cords to their setups.
Whether animals successfully adapt to alternative sources of heat and light might be hard to tell, especially with those belonging to hobbyists who don't seek regular veterinary care — and even with those who do. Wojick and Goss noted that reptiles can be good at masking illness.
"It's crazy what they can handle," Goss said. "Someone might try an alternative they think is OK, but they might not notice outside symptoms for a year or more."
The ARAV and USARK have been encouraging members and nonmembers alike to write to lawmakers requesting an exemption. Latney said hobbyists, herpetologists and organizations including zoos, universities and animal welfare groups, have expressed concerns about the ban, which have been presented to the AVMA Animal Welfare Committee.
"I think the Department of Energy is trying to do good things," said Wojick, who has been leading the lobbying effort for the ARAV. "We obviously need energy conservation. We don't want to waste our resources. But this is such a niche market, and it would be great if an exemption is eventually made for animal husbandry."

Credit: VIN
Published: August 29, 2024
By Ross Kelly

Who Goes First in the ER?
It may not be who you think

Despite the world going all potty of late, most of the clients I have dealt with recently in the veterinary ER have been nice folks. At the very least, they just come and go, but most have been appreciative and kind. I have even had some truly top-tier folks who I have kept in touch with and communicated with by text, phone, or email about their pet's progress. There's a lot of buzz about the wearing down of social graces, but I have been lucky enough to have avoided the worst of it.
One situation does stand out. Let's start with a scenario:
What would you think if you went into a deli and, instead of taking a number and waiting for it to be called, the person behind the counter held up a giant log of bologna and started shouting “Who needs this delicious, highly processed, lunchmeat the most? Who is just dying for this salty log of fatty nitrates?”
My guess is you'd think you stepped into an episode of Black Mirror or you would start looking for the hidden cameras. It's just not the way the deli works.
But it is the way the ER works, with one exception.
The situation goes like this: Saturday night in the ER, lobby full, staff working at max capacity.
We have advised folks that the expected wait is 3-4 hours to be seen, and most are OK with it. A few people have left, some harrumphing about how we don't care about pets (false) and some figuring they can wait until their regular vet is open (hopefully true), or maybe they can find another ER with a shorter wait time (also hopefully true, but unlikely).
One of the waiting patients is a dog with a broken toenail. This is painful, but not life-threatening, so after being given something for pain they are shuffled near the bottom of the priority list.
Doors bust open and technicians wheel in a large dog on a gurney with the panicked owners in tow. The dog is flat out and crying in pain. He is rushed to the treatment area for evaluation and stabilization.
Most of the waiting pet owners know what this means – this dog is in a crisis and will probably:

1. Need attention right away
2. Be sicker than their pet who is waiting
3. Make their wait time longer

Not Mr. Toenail, though. Even though his dog has already been triaged and given analgesics, he jumps up from his chair and accosts the receptionist.
“Hey! My dog was here first!”
I wish I was making this up – this really happens.
The ER is the anti-deli. In the ER, the delicious bologna log becomes medical care, and we give it to the worst first, not the first who show up. Sure, if it's a slower night and everyone is equally sick, we take care of the patients in the order they come in. But when it's hopping, we attend to the life-threatening stuff first, and everyone else sits (hopefully) patiently until it's their turn. It usually works just fine, until entitled Mr. Toenail shows up and must have the concept of triage (taking care of the most seriously ill first) explained to him by our patient and caring receptionist.
There is one exception, though, and this one doesn't happen in human ERs (or delis, either).
We do everything we can to move euthanasia cases to the front of the line. (If there's ever euthanasia in a deli, then you truly have entered the Black Mirror universe.)
It's not a medical priority, but it is a humane priority. People waiting for hours to have their beloved pet put to sleep just doesn't sit well with most veterinarians, and we do our level best to accommodate. Sometimes I literally can't get away, for example, if I am doing CPR or involved in a procedure, but my staff and I try to get to these cases and help the family as quickly as we can.
It usually involves multitasking, something I am good at after 30 years of ER work, and efficient staff. In some cases, if the family does not want to be with their pet when the final injection is given, it's easier to get done. But it can take time to place an IV catheter, sign the required authorization form, and time for a last visit. Time is not a commodity that is in abundant supply in the ER. But we make it work. One thing that I have recently learned is that it is legal for credentialed technicians to give the euthanasia injection (an overdose of an anesthetic, often accompanied by a sedative) and this can help streamline the process if the owners are OK with it. Most are.
So, if you are waiting in the ER, try your best not to be like Mr. Toenail. He upsets everyone: the other owners, the receptionist, and the health care team. Understand that in this world of entitlement, at this particular moment, someone else may be more entitled than you. If it's your pet who needs to be euthanized right now to eliminate suffering, you would not want a broken toenail to be seen ahead of your beloved pet in severe distress. Perhaps pop down to the deli for a delicious bologna sandwich and try and be thankful that the big, crying dog on a gurney or the red-eyed family emerging from the exam room with a blanket-draped parcel was not you and your dog.

Credit: VIN
​Published: July 07, 2023
By Tony Johnson, DVM, DACVECC

Hyperthermia may be a life-threatening condition and requires immediate treatment. 
Body temperature may be elevated because of an infection (fever), but it may also increase because of hot and/or humid conditions outside. An increased body temperature caused by environmental conditions is commonly referred to as hyperthermia, heatstroke, or heat prostration. 

Temperatures differ greatly inside vs outside of the car, and can be extremely dangerous. Copyright VIN 2023, design by Cristina Rózsa
Hyperthermia (heat stroke) is a common and preventable emergency that has the potential to be deadly.A dog’s normal body temperature is 101.5°F plus or minus 1 degree Fahrenheit, and any time the body temperature is higher than 105°F, a true emergency exists.  Heatstroke generally occurs in hot summer weather when dogs are left with inadequate ventilation in hot vehicles. However, heatstroke may also occur in other conditions, including:

• When an animal is left outdoors in hot/humid conditions without adequate shade.
• When exercised in hot/humid weather.  
• When left in a car on a relatively cool (70°F) day; a recent study from Stanford University Medical Center found the temperature within a vehicle may increase by an average of 40 degrees Fahrenheit within one (1) hour regardless of the outside temperature. 

Other predisposing factors may be obesity and/or diseases affecting a pet’s airway. Keep in mind that prolonged seizures, eclampsia (milk fever), poisonings, and many other conditions may cause hyperthermia. Also, brachycephalic (short-nosed) breeds (Pekingese, Pug, Lhasa Apso, Boston terrier, etc.) may suffer from “ineffectual panter syndrome” which results in an increased body temperature that may be fatal.
Initially, the pet appears distressed and will pant excessively and become restless. As the hyperthermia progresses, the pet may drool large amounts of saliva from the nose and/or mouth. The pet may become unsteady on his feet. You may notice the gums turning blue/purple or bright red, which is due to inadequate oxygen.
What to Do: 
Beginning the process of cooling the pet immediately is extremely important. 

• Remove your pet from the environment where the hyperthermia occurred. 
• Move your pet to a shaded and cool environment, and direct a fan on them.
• If possible, determine rectal temperature and record it.
• Place your pet in a cool or tepid water bath (or in the shower) without submerging their heads. 
• You may also wet the ear flaps and paws with cool water. Directing a fan on these wetted areas will help to speed up evaporative cooling. Transport to the closest veterinary facility immediately.

What NOT to Do:

• Do not over-cool the pet. Do not cover your pet with wet towels.
• Most pets with hyperthermia have body temperatures greater than 105°F, and a reasonable goal of cooling is to reduce your pet’s body temperature to 102.5-103°F while transporting them to the closest veterinary facility. 
• Do not attempt to force water into your pet’s mouth, but you may have fresh cool water ready to offer should your pet be alert and show an interest in drinking.
• Do not leave your pet unattended for any length of time.

Severe hyperthermia is a condition that affects nearly every system in the body. Simply lowering the body temperature fails to address the potentially catastrophic events that often accompany this disorder. A pet suffering from hyperthermia should be seen by a veterinarian as soon as possible.

Credit: VIN
Roger Gfeller, DVM, DACVECC;  Michael Thomas, DVM;  Isaac Mayo; The VIN Emergency Medicine Consultants
Revised: July 09, 2024

Sunscreen, or sunblock, can be used on cats and dogs. Pets with light skin and a short or thin hair coat are particularly prone to sunburn, skin cancer, and other solar-induced skin diseases (solar dermatitis, actinic keratosis, actinic dermatitis). If your dog’s coat is shaved during the summer for cooling, sunscreen may also be helpful. Additionally, pets who have suffered hair loss from allergies, surgery, or cancer radiation can benefit from sunscreen.
In pets, sunburn can appear as red skin or hair loss. The most common sites for sunburn in cats and dogs are the bridge of the nose, ear tips, the skin surrounding the lips, and any other area where skin pigmentation is low. The skin on the groin, inside legs, and abdomen can also need sunscreen because hair is very thin there and UV light can reflect off of concrete surfaces to affect those areas of skin.  Also, dogs who like to expose their belly to the sun may need sunscreen. 
The best way to minimize UV exposure in pets is to avoid the sun between 10 a.m. and 3 p.m. by keeping the pet inside. If that is not possible, sunscreen can be applied to protect the skin.
Select a sunscreen that is fragrance-free, non-staining, and contains UVA and UVB barriers similar to SPF 15 or SPF 30 for humans.
Some sunscreen products have been specifically created for pets. If you intend to use sunscreen on a cat, make certain that the product labeling specifically states that it is appropriate and safe for cats. Although some baby sunscreens may be safe for pets, avoid human sunscreens that have ingestion warnings because these products contain ingredients that can be toxic if licked by a dog or cat. No matter what sunscreen product you choose, remember to apply liberally and then re-apply regularly during sun exposure.
Additionally, there are UV protective clothing or sunsuits for pets. These products may be helpful for protecting dogs who enjoy sunbathing on their backs and exposing the skin on their abdomen to the sun.

Credit: VIN
​Revised: June 20, 2023
Published: August 03, 2006

Unlike dogs and people, which are omnivores and gain nutrition from both plants and meat, cats are obligate carnivores. This means that they get most of their nutrients from animal products. One scientific study showed that when cats in the wild live on prey (such as mice, that they hunt and kill), their diet is primarily protein (55%), some fat (45%), and only a very small percentage of carbohydrates (1-2%).
These are specific numbers from just one study, and that study didn’t follow all those cats around and look at the long-term health impacts of diet or compare a wild, scavenging cat’s environment to that of an inactive indoor cat. However, this and similar studies show that a cat’s diet should probably consist of high amounts of protein, moderate amounts of fat, and low amounts of carbohydrates.
One of the likely reasons behind these nutritional percentages is that a cat’s diet is based on the methods by which their body breaks down and metabolizes foods.

Are Carbohydrates Bad for Cats?
Depending on a cat’s life stage, the type of carbohydrate, and how it is manufactured, cats can digest an appropriate amount of carbohydrates efficiently. Small amounts of carbohydrates are necessary for their diets (e.g., fiber aids digestion and colonic health).
All Proteins Are Not Equal
Fish-based diets can sometimes have an imbalance of phosphorus and magnesium, which are important nutrients for cats. Feeding a diet made almost entirely of canned tuna can cause vitamin E deficiency. Your cat’s diet needs to consist of more than just choice cuts of meat; organ meats and fat are also important. The key is balance and ensuring nutritional needs are met.
Additional Nutritional Needs of a Cat
In addition to your cat’s protein requirements, they are deficient and/or can’t make certain nutrients needed for survival. Instead, they must get these nutrients from the foods they eat. Important dietary nutrients include amino acids, which are molecules that form proteins, as well as vitamins such as vitamin B (niacin) and vitamin D. Many of these important nutrients are primarily obtained from animal products (e.g., liver, protein, fat), which further highlights the importance of a diet high in animal protein. When researching commercial cat foods, make sure these nutrients are part of the ingredients. If you are unsure if your cat’s current diet hasthese nutrients, ask your veterinarian.
Water
The domestic house cat is believed to have descended from wild desert cats. They can survive on less water than some other animals, such as dogs. This is great for survival but can be a problem in the long term because they have less of a drive to seek water when their bodies need it. This lack of water can lead to a variety of issues over time.
This information leads many researchers to recommend canned food because of its higher water content (70%-80% water) over dry food (10%-12% water). Other ways to make sure your cat gets enough water include offering more options for drinking, such as multiple water bowls throughout the house, a kitty water fountain, or occasionally letting a faucet drip to tempt them to drink.

Canned Food vs Dry Kibble
Evidence suggests that canned commercial diets (wet food) high in protein and low in carbohydrates may be the best diet for many cats; however, more research is needed. Some veterinarians have also noticed that common issues in feline medicine, such as urinary tract disease and chronic gastrointestinal (GI) issues, are seen much more often in cats that are fed dry diets alone. Hopefully, more veterinary studies in this area will be conducted to shed further light on these findings.
Another benefit of canned food over dry is that the water content helps keep the sensation of feeling full, so your cat won’t consume too many calories. Many veterinarians will switch an overweight cat that has been eating dry food to a canned food diet as the first step toward weight loss, but the diet should also be appropriately fortified to make sure essential nutrients are in the right concentrations. It is important to note that canned diets tend to be more expensive than dry kibble diets, and there is often more food waste. Canned diets may not be for every family.
Raw Diets
Raw diets aren’t ideal for any pet, even for the carnivorous cat. It is difficult to properly make a raw diet that includesnecessary nutrients, vitamins, amino acids, proteins, fats, and carbohydrates and is correctly balanced. Raw meat can also contain bacteria and parasites that can make not only your cat sick but you as well. Outdoor and feral cats that eat only prey animals may have a slightly decreased risk of this issue because the kill is fresh, but they can still catch diseases such as toxoplasmosis from eating raw prey.
When to Feed
Many feline species found in the wild tend to be grazers, eating multiple small meals throughout the day and night. This tendency is thought to be associated with the types of prey they hunt. Domestic cats are the same, even if they eat commercial cat food. Leaving an appropriate amount of dry food out all day or using a timed feeder so that cats can eat as they need to works pretty well for most cats as long as they do not overeat. If using canned food, or if your cat is on a calorie-restricted diet, you can offer smaller, more frequent meals throughout the day to help keep them on their body’s natural schedule.
Making a Change to Feeding Schedules
Whether you are transitioning from freely fed kibble to periodically feeding canned food throughout the day, trying to get your cat on a schedule to better manage its calorie intake, trying to change from feeding one to two times a day to allowing more grazing, or just trying to readjust your sleeping schedule, the key is gradual change. 
Cats are absolutely creatures of habit. Just about every cat owner out there will tell you that when Daylight Savings Time hits, their cats’ tummies do not “spring forward” with the new time. What do you do?
Tips for Starting a New Feeding Schedule:
• For slight changes in feeding times (like transitioning to Daylight Savings Time or a new starting time at work), adjust the new feeding time by 15-minute increments over one to two weeks.
• To change to free feeding, decrease your cat's regular meals by one-fourth the amount and then offer the extra in the form of a snack in the morning and a snack in the afternoon. Gradually transition to four equal small meals a day, then try six small meals a day. This can be difficult (or may not be appropriate) for cats that are not naturally grazers and have a tendency to overeat.
• To change from free feeding to set meals, start by reversing the above transition to regular meals. Offer six portions spaced out throughout the day instead of free-feeding, then gradually decrease the number of meals to two meals a day, increasing the portions as you go along to make sure your cat is getting the appropriate amount of daily calories.
• To change to regularly scheduled wet food meals from freely fed dry kibble, start by transitioning to a regular schedule using their normal dry food diet. Once they are comfortable with their new feeding schedule, gradually mix in wet food with these regular meals (making sure to decrease the amount of dry food in proportion to the amount of wet food to avoid overfeeding your cat). With time, decrease the amount of kibble compared to wet food until you have them completely transitioned.
• Be patient and transition as slowly as you can. If your cat quits eating or drives you crazy because their schedule has changed, go back a few steps in the transition process and start again. Some cats are very stubborn and are not up for big changes. If this is the case with your cat, a compromise of snacks throughout the day or a mix of dry and wet food may be the best you can do. 
• If in doubt, ask your veterinarian for more recommendations. You definitely won’t be the first cat owner to have a cat who only wants to eat one thing and only wants to eat it on their chosen schedule. Cats are very intelligent, independent animals, which is part of what makes them so great, but that also means it is pretty common for them to want things done their own way.
How Much to Feed
How much to feed depends on what you are feeding. Many commercial cat foods have a list  describing the recommended amount per weight on the can or bag. However, these recommendations are only general guidelines from the manufacturer. Feed the amount your cat needs for a healthy weight (which should be determined by your veterinarian), not what the cat currently weighs.
For example, if your cat weighs 17 pounds but should weigh 12 pounds, slowly adjust the amount of food appropriate for a 12-pound cat. If your cat needs to lose weight, discuss your concerns with your veterinarian before starting a diet/calorie restriction plan since a specific diet is usually needed to do this safely. Being overweight is a significant health problem and should be prevented whenever possible or reversed if needed.
It is also important to measure food correctly. Use a gram scale or measure food by volume with measuring cups rather than estimating the amount. Feeding just 10 extra pieces of dry kibble a day can contribute to 10% weight gain in a year, equivalent to an entire pound of body weight in most cats!
Keep in mind that feeding a suitable amount of food will not stop your cat’s urge to hunt. In the wild, hunting often requires many attempts before success, so the instinct to hunt tends to be separate from a feeling of fullness. Cats get enrichment from hunting (i.e., enhanced quality of life from doing and acting on important cat behaviors), even if they don’t eat what they catch. You can help provide your cat with this type of enrichment by letting them play with mice or feathered toys to help stimulate their hunting instincts without affecting their waistlines.
Determining Quality
Always discuss your cat’s nutrition concerns with your veterinarian. Veterinarians are trained in nutrition and understand the delicate balance of nutrients needed to keep your cat healthy. Your veterinarian can make food recommendations based on your pet’s personal physical examination and health status.
Help ensure your cat is eating an appropriate commercial diet for their life stage by making sure the food meets the nutritional standards of the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO), either by formulation or by using feeding tests. AAFCO publishes guidelines yearly to help keep the nutritional appropriateness of pet foods; in many cases, these recommendations are then adopted at the state level to become law.
The monitoring and enforcement of pet food law is under the jurisdiction of state and federal officials, but the manufacturers bear a lot of responsibility to ensure nutritional adequacy. Unfortunately, pet foods have no certification or approval process; however, a large, reputable manufacturer following AAFCO guidelines and many other production standards helps ensure quality and safety.
Avoiding a Picky Eater
Cats tend to develop a liking for certain textures, flavors, smells, and temperatures of food. Preferences are fine, but extreme pickiness can make changing diets or getting a sick cat to eat difficult. Consider offering your cat a variety of food options in early life to help them avoid becoming stuck on certain foods.
Tips for helping a picky eater transition to new foods include:
 • Maintaining a safe space for your cat’s meals (e.g., low noise, no concern with other pets trying to eat the food or bother your cat while eating).
 • Make sure a picky appetite is not poor because of illness (e.g., nausea from stomach upset, pain from arthritis).
 • Consider warming wet food to enhance smell and taste, but make sure it’s not too hot. 
 • Mixing the food your cat is used to with the new food and transition slowly over several days or weeks. 
 • Cats often refuse new diets when stressed but will eat them under normal conditions, so make sure the atmosphere is stress-free during the transition.
Medical Management Through Food
Veterinary therapeutic diets have been formulated to address medical problems in cats. Medical disorders that can be helped with specific diets include kidney disease, dental disease, hyperthyroidism, diabetes mellitus, urinary tract disorders, GI diseases, and pancreatitis. If your cat is experiencing a medical illness, especially one that is chronic or ongoing, talk to your veterinarian about whether a veterinary therapeutic diet might be helpful.
Using Food Behaviors to Enhance Daily Life
In addition to meeting nutritional and caloric needs, food can provide enrichment for cats, especially indoor cats, by stimulating their predatory impulses. This helps them live a happier, less stressful, and more cat-like life. Examples of enrichment through food are hiding meals in food puzzles and letting cats play with food-containing toys in a way that stimulates a cat’s natural predatory instinct of hunting for food.
Remember that if a cat is on a restricted diet, you can use toys that stimulate the cat’s predator response, such as small, mouse-sized toys that squeak or make high-pitched noises. Toys that move unpredictably are especially fun for cats. This type of feeding or playing can help increase your cat’s activity level, decrease their stress, and may help keep them more physically fit.
Common Myths About Food
While many misconceptions exist about cats and food, a few common ones are listed below. You already know the truth about the most important one: cats are not omnivores but, in fact, are carnivores.

• Taste. Believe it or not, cats are not capable of tasting sweet flavors. That type of flavor is not part of the chemical receptors in their taste buds. This is likely associated with them being carnivorous as very few animal products or by-products are sweet, so they likely just don’t need the flavor profile.
• Dairy products such as milk, cheese, and cream: Many adult cats are lactose intolerant, usually developing this intolerance after maturity. Even small sips of any kind of milk or small bites of cheese can cause a tummy ache, loose stool, and excess gas.
• Cats only eat what they need. While this may be true for some cats, others are just as likely to overindulge as some people do. Research shows that certain cats will eat when stressed, similar to how certain people jokingly state that they “eat their feelings.” Pet owners need to understand this so that they can ensure their cat is fed the proper amount of food for their body’s metabolic and physiologic needs rather than their emotional needs.
• Dry kibble helps reduce dental issues. Kibble does not significantly reduce the risk of dental tartar and dental disease, except for a few specific types. (Discuss with your veterinarian the available options.) The most effective way to prevent dental tartar is to brush your cat’s teeth every single day. If you are avoiding switching to wet food to help keep your cat’s teeth healthy, no worries! If you are still concerned, offer crunchy dental treats as an alternative.

Bottom Line:  Feed Balanced Diets Appropriate for Your Cat’s Life Stage, and Avoid Overfeeding 
Cats are not like people or dogs. They are carnivores and are adapted to eat a diet with specific nutrients. Your cat’s overall health can be significantly improved if obesity is avoided, and their lives are made more interesting with enrichment activities involving food. Canned foods can help keep good hydration and satiety (i.e., a feeling of fullness after eating). Talk to your veterinarian about which diet is best for your pet and how much to feed.
Credit: VIN
Revised: June 15, 2024
Published: November 01, 2018

Dehydration is excessive loss of water from the body (typically through vomiting and/or diarrhea) or inappropriate intake of water into the body (decreased thirst).  The most common mistake with a vomiting pet is to encourage food and water intake while the pet is still vomiting. This actually makes matters worse by not allowing the stomach and intestinal tract time to rest and can cause additional vomiting and water loss. Removing access to food and water for a short period of time may seem like it would make dehydration worse, but it can help your pet avoid further dehydration. Dehydration makes your pet feel lethargic, and can potentially cause severe problems with the kidneys and other internal organs if untreated.What to Do

• If moderate or severe dehydration, seek veterinary attention.  (See below for how to assess if dehydration is potentially severe in your pet.) 
• If dehydration is mild and the pet is not vomiting, give frequent, small amounts of water by mouth; that means in the range of 1 tsp for a cat or small dog to 1 tbsp to 1/4 cup for a medium to large dog every few hours.
• If your pet is lethargic, in pain, or has not eaten for 24 hours, seek veterinary attention.

Some cases of dehydration may require medical treatment potentially including IV fluids.What NOT to Do

• Do not allow your pet to have immediate free access to large amounts of water or other liquid.  
• Do not feed your pet any dry food until directed to do so by a veterinary professional.

Dehydration often accompanies symptoms like vomiting, diarrhea, hypothermia (low body temperature), fever, no access to water, and other conditions. It can be detected by several tests:
Mouth: Are the tongue and gums moist or dry? If they are dry, there is a chance your pet may be dehydrated. Is the saliva thick or ropey? Normally, saliva is quite watery and hardly noticeable.
Eyes: Are they normal, or do they sink into the sockets? Sunken or dry eyes may indicate dehydration, and warrant veterinary attention.
Skin: Do the skin turgor test outlined in the Physical Exam Checklist. If the skin is slow to return to position, the pet may be moderately to severely dehydrated. If the skin does not return fully to its position, your pet may be severely dehydrated and may be in critical condition. Seek veterinary attention immediately. The skin turgor test is not always accurate and several factors such as age, weight loss, and condition of the skin can give misleading results. A veterinary professional can help you determine how dehydrated your pet is, what the cause may be, and the best course of treatment.

Credit: VIN
​Roger Gfeller, DVM, DACVECC;  Michael Thomas, DVM;  Isaac Mayo; The VIN Emergency Medicine Consultants
Revised: June 19, 2023
Published: December 31, 1994

Summer is full of celebrations involving fireworks. Canada has Canada Day on July 1, the USA has Independence Day on July 4, and France has Bastille Day on July 14. Dogs and cats react to fireworks as individuals. Some aren’t upset by the explosions, and others get hurt by panicking and jumping through closed windows or bolting through doors to get away from the terrifying noise and lights.
American pet advocacy groups point out that the number of escapees is so high that Independence Day is the busiest day of the year in shelters -- and that many pets get lost, injured, or killed. You should know which clinics or emergency hospitals will be open during fireworks season, in case you need one, as this will help you avoid time delays and stress.
Your pets will do better if they’re not left home alone during fireworks events. That's not always feasible, so think ahead before leaving them alone.
Signs of anxiety can include pacing, trembling, panting, drooling, attention-seeking (vocalizing, pawing, nuzzling, and climbing on people), hiding, and bolting. Escape attempts tend to involve hiding behind furniture, and staying in a basement or bathroom. Because the source of the noise is confusing, inside dogs may want to escape to the outside, and outside dogs may be frantic to get inside.
Nervous pets tend to drink more water, so keep more available than usual. (And remember, these summer events usually mean hotter weather, and the likelihood of power problems, so extra water is already a good idea.) Bring outside pets inside, so they can't bolt. Keep your cats securely inside, and if your dog needs a potty break during the fireworks, take him outside on a leash, even in a fenced yard. Make sure all your pets are wearing an ID tag or a collar that contains your phone number. Tags and collars can be lost, so a microchip is even more useful in helping you find your lost pet.
Drug-Free Remedies
What can you do to keep your frightened pet safe and calm? For many frightened pets, just staying in a crate (as long as they are used to one) or in a “safe” room with a closed door is all that's needed.
Synthetic pheromone sprays such as Feliway for cats and Adaptil (formerly called D.A.P.) for dogs are available at pet stores. These sprays imitate the properties of the natural pheromones of the lactating female that gives kittens or puppies a sense of well-being.
An herbal relaxant called Composure comes in chews or liquid for dogs; the feline version is in chews.
Some pets respond to pressure wraps, such as Thundershirts. The pressure on the body may have a calming effect.
Ear muffs to muffle sound are also available.
Calming caps cover a dog's eyes to reduce visual stimulation.
If you can plan ahead for these summer events, veterinary behaviorists often recommend behavior modification, classical counter-conditioning, and teaching a desirable coping response.
In behavior modification, controlling the intensity of the fireworks is necessary and often the most challenging part. While it often isn’t possible to expose a fearful dog to only “little fireworks,” controlling other factors can help. Distance from the fireworks can be less intimidating, as would be keeping the dog indoors.  Music may disguise the bursts of noise; consider loud music with a regular beat.
Classical counter-conditioning can create a positive association with fireworks if the anxiety isn’t extreme. Give high-value food rewards (canned food or peanut butter), offer your pet his favorite toys or food puzzle toys, or have your pet practice his tricks with you. The goal is for him to learn that fireworks result in highly pleasant rewards.
You can teach a desirable coping response. The appropriate response for a dog facing something frightening is to retreat to a safe place until the frightening thing ends. Providing a safe retreat, such as a crate or a closet, will give security and confidence, although selecting the location is up to the pet. Blankets to muffle the sound and a pheromone diffuser will provide natural motivation for the dog to seek this location. Being able to cope when the world becomes overwhelming is a life skill essential for both people and dogs!  Hiding is not a sign of a problem if the pet quickly returns to normal behavior when the fireworks are over.
Medication
It's easier to prevent a fearful reaction than it is to reverse one. If your pet is nervous around loud, unexpected noises, a short-term sedative before the fireworks start may be just the ticket.
Talk to your veterinarian ahead of time, so you can have something on hand to give your pet before the noise begins. Several medications are used for fireworks or thunderstorm phobias in dogs; however, do not use any of your own prescriptions because the dosage may be potentially harmful.
Some severely anxious pets may benefit from drugs (clomipramine, fluoxetine, or trazodone) that increase the level of serotonin. Trazodone may start working within a few hours, but its effect varies, so you should test it with your dog before the fireworks season starts. The other drugs can take several weeks if not more, to build up to an effective level, so they are not a spur-of-the-moment fix.
You have many choices of how to help your pet cope with fireworks stress.  Talk to your veterinarian about what is best for your pet. Hopefully, everyone in the family will then be able enjoy the holiday!

​Credit: VIN
Becky Lundgren, DVM
Revised: June 27, 2024
Published: June 23, 2010

Cats retain many behaviors of their wild ancestors. As predators, they have strength, agility, speed, and keen senses to catch prey effectively. Owners can help their feline friends express these natural skills during mealtimes. Food enrichment provides physical and behavioral well-being for the cat and enjoyment for the family.
Feed part of the daily meal or special treats when using the following tools. Many diets, including prescription, can be used for enrichment with either wet or dry foods.

• Put food on a paper plate and it slides around a smooth floor. The cat keeps moving to “catch” the food.
• Spread food onto a silicone potholder to provide nooks and crannies for extra licking. Place the potholder on the floor or hang it on a wall.
• Commercial feeders can be purchased online or at pet stores that enable canned food feeding. 

Dry food can be placed in puzzles since cats bat, push, and move about to get the food to fall out

• Fold toilet paper tubes stuffed with kibble for pushing, swatting, and chewing.
• Stand paper tubes upright and pack them tightly inside a box for paw scooping.
• Cut paw-sized holes and strips in the top of a shallow box or a clear container for batting and scooping.
• Many commercial puzzles available for small dogs work well for cats. Put lots of kibble in the puzzle to help novice cats be successful.

Hide and seek because cats use the sense of smell to find food

• Filled puzzle feeders can be hidden within a room or house to encourage the cat to find them.
• Use a wand cat toy to play, then direct the cat to the hidden food.
• Scatter kibble on cat trees, shelves, behind plants, and couches. Start with easy hides in a small room and increase the search difficulty as the cat improves.

Interactive games build a better bond

• Wand toys can be used to play and direct the cat during the hide and seek game.
• Clicker training is a great way to feed meals and teach healthcare behaviors.
• Let your cat watch you fill the puzzle and sit with them while they work.
• Quickly slide a piece of kibble across a smooth floor for running and pouncing fun.

Safety Tips
Supervise pet interactions when using these in a multi-pet household.
Observe your cat during food enrichment to be sure they don’t get stuck, injured, or become frustrated.
Small meals in feeders prevent gulping and may lessen vomiting.

Credit: VIN
Sherrie Yuschak, RVT, VTS (Behavior), KPA-CTP
Revised: May 24, 2024
​

Feather destructive behavior (also called feather picking) happens when birds damage their feathers with their beak. This is not a disease by itself, but a symptom of an underlying problem. Feather picking can cause baldness, and in severe cases it can damage underlying tissues. It is widespread among captive parrots, especially grey parrots and cockatoos, but any pet bird can be affected.
Left unchecked, feather picking has serious consequences. Besides causing baldness or a lack of nice feathers, feather picking affects a bird’s ability to keep itself warm, can cause bleeding, infections, and permanent damage to the feather follicle, thus preventing normal regrowth. This can progress to an obsessive-compulsive disorder, making treatment much more difficult.      
Causes
Feather picking is a consequence of captivity. This behavior is much less common in wild birds. The conditions of captivity provide less stimulation than a bird has in the wild, where they spend their time avoiding predators, exploring their environment, socializing, etc. A bird may feather pick in response to decreased levels of mental and social stimulation. 
Causes are divided into medical and non-medical. Several can contribute to feather picking at the same time. While not listed below, any disease that causes pain, discomfort, irritation or itch can be a medical cause.
Non-medical causes

• Environmental
  •    nutritional deficiency
  •    airborne and/or topical toxins
  •    low humidity
  •    small cage or poor cage design
  •    overcrowding
  •    social isolation
  •    unable to perform natural behaviors
  •    hand-rearing and improper socialization
  •    unpredictable environment
    
    
• Behavioral
  •    individual personality
  •    boredom
  •    stress
  •    anxiety or phobia
  •    sleep deprivation
  •    attention-seeking behavior

 Medical Causes

• Primary feather and skin diseases
  •    viral diseases
  •    bacterial or fungal skin infections
  •    feather dysplasia (abnormal feather growth)
  •    allergies - although this is poorly understood

Recognizing Feather Picking in your Bird
Any feather your bird can reach is fair game, although the chest, undersurface of the wing and inner thigh are most commonly affected. Feathers on the head and neck are unaffected because their beak cannot reach these areas. To spot changes as soon as possible, be familiar with what your bird’s feathers and general appearance normally look like as well as what they should look like. Your bird’s feathers should be tidy and sleek. If you notice any broken feathers or bald spots, consult your veterinarian.
Diagnosis
Diagnosing the underlying cause(s) of feather picking can be a long process and requires excellent cooperation between you and your veterinarian. With non-medical causes so common, it is important to provide your veterinarian with a thorough history of your bird’s behavior and environment. This helps your veterinarian rule in or out possible causes. In addition, your veterinarian will perform a physical examination and an assessment of your bird.
Once your veterinarian has a good list of possible causes, they may decide further specific tests are needed. These can include bloodwork, x-rays, skin biopsies, and more. These tests are tailored to your individual bird.
Treatment
Realistically, eliminating feather picking in each bird is not possible. Feather picking is a complex problem with different contributing factors. A reduction in the amount of feather picking can be considered a success.
The basis for several treatment strategies is to provide your bird with healthy, more desirable alternatives to feather picking. Feather picking serves a purpose to your bird. It can help birds cope with boredom, stress, anxiety and other unpleasant feelings. Treatment plans are designed to address the underlying reason of why your bird is picking. How they do so should be tailored to your bird and your lifestyle. The most impressive treatment plans will fail if they cannot be carried out.     
Different Therapeutic Strategies

•  Medical treatment depends on the cause
•  Environmental enrichment
  • Foraging so the bird has to physically and mentally work to get food
  • Physical objects for play such as toys, swings, ladders, mirrors
  • Physical space to allow flying, running, swimming
  • Sensory enrichment to use bird’s sense of sight, hearing, smell and touch, such as having a “Room with a view,” background noises, videos, cage proximity to people
  • Social interaction with other birds and people, even indirectly by seeing and hearing others or directly with a cage mate
  • Encourage problem solving, learning, and controlling some feature in the bird's environment
  • Free flight in house

A lot of work and time go into creating a treatment plan and carrying it out. It is important to work closely with your veterinarian. Some strategies are slowly introduced to prevent over-stimulation, stress, and other risks. Depending on your bird’s response and what works best, your treatment plan will change as time goes on.
Temporary Fixes
Temporary measures that reduce feather picking include Elizabethan collars, neck braces, fabric jackets or vests, and applying foul-tasting substances to the areas being picked. These tactics are not solutions. Your bird is still upset, agitated, or sick and will feather pick if given the chance. 
Prognosis
Feather picking requires a fair amount of persistence and patience from both the owner and veterinarian. Despite an excellent treatment plan and teamwork, success may mean only a reduction of feather picking rather than eliminating it entirely. Catching it early improves the chance of success.   

Credit: VIN
​Stephanie Cruz-Rincon, Veterinary Student Class of 2023
Published July 21, 2020

Any insect or spider can cause problems if they bite or sting your pet. A bite or sting can cause swelling, redness, and itching. Some animals can have an allergic reaction to a sting or bite that may result in a range of symptoms: mild to severe hives, facial swelling, vomiting, difficulty breathing, or even collapse. Some spider bites can lead to extensive skin necrosis (skin death) which may need treatment or surgery. Contact a veterinarian right away if your pet is showing signs of an allergic reaction. Reactions can be severe and may require emergency treatment.

What to Do:
European honey bee courtesy of Natalie Rowe If the stinger can be found, scrape it out with a credit card or other stiff material. Alternatively, use tweezers by grasping the stinger, which is located below the venom sac. Studies have shown that speed is of the essence in removing the stinger. If the only way is to pinch it and remove it, then do so. You'll do more good than harm and you'll get the stinger out faster. Don't worry about squeezing more venom into the area - this has been disproven.      Apply cool compresses to the area 3-4 times daily for 3-4 days.   To help neutralize some of the acidic venom, apply a paste mixture of baking soda and water to the sting area. Prevent your pet from licking at the area by using an Elizabethan collar (cone) to prevent further trauma to the area. In short-faced/brachycephalic breeds like pugs, boxers, etc., facial swelling can lead to damage to the eyes. Have your veterinarian examine your pet and prevent rubbing on carpet, furniture, etc.
​ What NOT to Do:
Mosquito Do not administer any medications without first contacting your veterinarian or a veterinary emergency hospital. The veterinarian may need to examine your pet before recommending medications.

Credit: VIN
​​Roger Gfeller, DVM, DACVECC; Michael Thomas, DVM; Isaac Mayo; The VIN Emergency Medicine Consultants
Revised: August 01, 2023
Published: December 31, 1994
​