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Christine Calder, DVM, DACVB
Published: January 22, 2021 Photo courtesy of Christine CalderMany people love to take their dog on errands and fun adventures in the car. Some even take their cats. Some dogs and cats become anxious in the car with others refusing to enter the car at all. What can we do? Anxiety in the car is a common behavior among both dogs and cats. There are many different reasons for this including movement of the car, car noises, or sights and sounds outside the window. Step 1: Rule Out Motion Sickness Many of the behaviors your dog displays when nauseous mimic anxiety, such as licking lips, drooling, and panting. If left untreated, motion sickness leads to anxiety about the car. Cerenia®, an FDA approved medication, is effective at preventing motion sickness in dogs. If the anxious behavior does not persist, then motion sickness was likely the cause. Step 2: Pheromones and Aromatherapy Adaptil®, a pheromone, is an odorless message specific to dogs that can help dogs feel calm and relaxed during times of stress. Feliway®, is the cat version. Pheromones are sprayed on the floorboards, in your pet’s carrier, and where your pet rides. Wait 10 minutes before letting your pet back in their carrier or car and never spray directly on your pet. Lavender, chamomile, and sandalwood scents are thought to reduce anxiety and have a positive effect on behavior and mood. A study was published showing dogs spent significantly more time resting and sitting and less time moving and vocalizing during car rides when lavender was introduced for car rides. Step 3: Window Shades and Thundercaps Blocking the view outside can be dangerous to the driver. Tools such as small window shades or a Thundercap are helpful in reducing both motion sickness and car ride anxiety. Photo courtesy of Christine CalderStep 4: Seatbelts and Crates If you use a carrier, teach your pet to enjoy the carrier. Covering the carrier or crate helps your pet feel safe and secure when traveling. Harnesses that attach to a seatbelt improve safety. Several seatbelt harness combinations have been crash test certified by the Center for Pet Safety. Step 5: Long-Term Treatment There are many approaches to decreasing your pet’s anxiety in the car. All techniques start with a calm and relaxed animal. Conditioning relaxation on a mat or the use of a Treat&Train® are helpful when modifying this behavior. Step 6: Medication Medications can be helpful when reducing anxiety in the car. Talk with your veterinarian about options for your pet. Credit: VIN
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Bob Judd, DVM, DABVP (Equine Medicine), DABVP (Canine and Feline Practice)
Courtesy of Texas Farm Bureau Radio Network Revised: December 20, 2023 Published: October 02, 2006 Back pain in horses has always been a difficult diagnosis because it is hard to get any objective data on the horse’s back. However, Dr. Cooper Williams said at the AAEP Convention that equine practitioners should be using ultrasound to further examine the muscles in the horse's back. Almost all equine practitioners have access to an ultrasound with sufficient power to image the equine back muscles and can diagnose specific conditions in this area. The multifidus muscle is the major muscle in the horse’s back. It is not a single muscle, but a group of overlapping muscles grouped into five distinct bands. Each muscle originates at the end of a spinal vertebrae and spans two to four vertebrae and it is likely that injuries to these muscles are underdiagnosed. Because these muscles are deep and adjacent to the vertebrae, examining them by palpation, X-rays and even bone scanning is not very effective. Many of these horses have atrophy of the back muscles and spasms and these muscles can be examined thoroughly with ultrasound. All of the muscles in the back should be examined with ultrasound. It requires measuring the size of the muscles and comparing results to the same muscles on the other side to know if there is a problem, so this procedure does require some time and experience. Changes noted on ultrasound may be the size and shape of the muscles, a decrease in shade of the image, which can indicate a tear in the muscle or injury, and an increase in muscle shade that can indicate inflammation where the muscles are attached to the bone. So, if you have a horse with a suspected back problem causing decreased performance, ask your veterinarian about an ultrasound exam. Credit: VIN Mark Rishniw, BVSc, MS, PhD, DACVIM (Internal Medicine and Cardiology) Published: February 20, 2024Canine heartworms, Dirofilaria immitis, are parasitic worms that pose a serious threat to dogs. These long, slender worms live in the pulmonary arteries (and, occasionally, within the heart) of dogs and can measure up to a foot in length. They can cause substantial damage to the lungs and heart. Adult heartworms cause inflammation of the blood vessels in the lungs, resulting in respiratory issues and pulmonary hypertension. In some cases, this leads to weight loss, weakness, right-sided congestive heart failure, reduced quality of life, and even death. The prevention of heartworms and early detection are crucial in managing heartworm disease. Mosquitoes and the Heartworm Lifecycle Mosquitos are vectors of heartworm disease. A vector is a carrier and transmitter of disease from an infected individual to a non-infected individual. Certain species of mosquito can ingest young heartworms, called microfilariae when they feed on an infected animal. Once inside the mosquito, the microfilariae develop into third-stage larvae (known as L3) over a few weeks, provided that the environmental conditions are conducive (temperatures above 58oF). The larvae pass through the puncture wound the mosquito makes when it bites another animal. The larvae grow under the skin of the newly infected animal over several weeks, progressing through additional larval stages. At a certain point, the larvae enter the bloodstream and float into the pulmonary arteries (the arteries carrying blood from the heart to the lungs). Here, they mature into adults. It takes about six to seven months for the larvae to reach adulthood. Adult heartworms mate, and then the females begin to release tiny larvae, the microfilariae, back into the bloodstream, continuing their lifecycle. Prevention is Key Preventing heartworms is much easier (especially for your dog) than having to treat an active heartworm infection. Studies show that exposure to heartworm depends on factors such as:
Heartworms exist in many parts of the world, but the prevalence greatly varies. In warmer climates with higher mosquito populations, such as tropical and subtropical areas, the risk of heartworm transmission is higher. These areas make excellent habitats for mosquitoes and the development of heartworm larvae, so dogs living in these regions are at a greater risk of heartworms. On the other hand, there are fewer heartworm infections in cooler or drier regions with smaller mosquito populations. The travel, relocation, and presence of infected animals can allow heartworms to start infecting animals where they are less common. Climate change (and temperature increase) is also expanding mosquito ranges, creating longer active seasons and better environmental conditions for larvae. Environmental Considerations More recent recommendations for preventing heartworm infections advise reducing mosquito bites. This can be done by avoiding places with heavy mosquito populations when possible to reduce the chances of being bitten and contracting heartworms (for example, some studies have shown that indoor dogs in high-risk areas tend to have fewer infections than outdoor dogs). Avoid visiting permanent and semi-permanent (seasonal) bodies of water like lakes, streams, and floodplain areas with your dog, especially when large mosquito hatches are taking place (usually in warmer, humid weather). Check around your home for areas with standing water and eliminate containers or reservoirs that may be prime real estate for mosquito larvae. There may always be an ideal climate for mosquitoes, and other preventative methods such as lawn alteration, porch nets, and other mosquito barriers may be helpful, depending on your location. Talk to your local health department if you have concerns about mosquitoes on your property and what you can do to help control them. Preventative Medications Heartworm preventatives are prescribed by your veterinarian and come in oral, topical, and injectable forms. As mentioned before, preventing heartworms is much easier than treating them, and the American Heartworm Society recommends FDA-approved heartworm preventatives year-round. In areas where mosquitoes are endemic (native or regularly present), your dog can be infected if just one preventative dose is missed. The risk varies depending on your location, and even people who live in places with cold winters should give heartworm preventatives year-round for the best possible prevention. Detecting Heartworm Infection Blood tests for heartworm infections are recommended yearly for all dogs over seven months. If you do not give preventatives regularly every month or if you switch preventatives, more frequent testing may be recommended. If your dog has tested positive for heartworms, your veterinarian will discuss the treatment options available. Talk to your veterinarian about heartworm preventative options and recommended testing frequency. Janet Stomberg, BS, MS, Veterinary Partner Content Coordinator, contributed to this article. Credit: VIN Revised: March 30, 2024
Published: April 05, 2009 Sophia Yin, DVM, CAAB, MS Animal Science (1966-2014); Revised by CattleDogPublishing Team Twas the week after Easter And all through the house A bunny was stirring All quiet like a mouse It tasted the carpet It marked the new couch It left little green presents Which made Dad a grouch Did you ask for a rabbit for Easter? Did you get one? Read on for a fun (and perhaps not so fun) look at rabbit ownership. Ask any rabbit fancier, and they will tell you what makes rabbits so great. These affectionate, high-spirited herbivores are full of mischief and games. Their amusing behavior, coupled with their quiet nature and convenient size, makes them wonderful house pets. But as some unsuspecting Easter bunny recipients may soon discover, these feisty little lagomorphs can be a handful to house. In fact, their upkeep can be such a challenge that a handful of owners will call it quits and surrender their Easter pet to an animal shelter. To help prevent such a grave mistake, here are some facts and tips that a potential rabbit owner should consider. Bunny-proof the House To start, the first challenge most bunny owners face is that of protecting the house. Bunnies love to chew—on your plants, on your books, and especially on your electrical cords. It’s in their nature. Their wild counterparts spend most of the day foraging, which requires hours of chewing on often relatively low-calorie foods to get the nutrition they need. They browse a few leaves on one plant and then hop over to the next and search through the vegetation to get to the parts they want. In contrast, the typical house rabbit tends to get a concentrated pellet meal, which takes way less time to chew. As a result, bunnies have all that extra time on their hands and a high desire to chew. An on-the-ball owner will provide chew toys and hay at all times to help fulfill this chewing desire. In addition to these precautions, you’ll need to bunny-proof the house. Make sure electrical cords are out of the way, and if you can’t elevate the cords put them in PVC piping. Once you think the house is safe, you can start letting Bunny out, supervised at first. That way, you can see how well you have bunny-proofed. You never quite know what they will take an inkling to do. Some youngsters even chew and swallow carpet, which can lead to intestinal blockage, a problem that requires surgery. It’s important that rabbits get enough exercise. Spending their entire day in a cage is not adequate any more than spending all your time in a room the size of a walk-in closet and with no T.V., radio, or internet! So, Bunny will need some playtime every day outside the cage. Bunny Poop and Potty Training Even before you give Bunny the run of the room or even the house, there are a few other issues to consider. Assuming you don’t like little green pellets decorating your floor, your bunny’s first lesson should be potty training. Limiting Bunny to the cage and adding a box filled with rabbit-safe litter plus samples of her No. Two often does the trick. Additionally, adding hay to the corner of the box can help entice them in. For the occasional bunny who likes to hang out in their own bathroom and poop in the cage, make the rest of the cage more comfortable so they'll hang out there instead. Try placing a synthetic sheepskin rug in it. Once you’re certain Bunny has the idea, you can let them out into a small play area. Be sure they still have easy access to the litter box, and add boxes as needed. By starting slowly, you’ll be able to increase the play area gradually and decrease the number of litter boxes. An Interesting Fact About Rabbit Poop By the way, since we’re talking about poop, you might want to know that rabbits regularly eat some of their poop. Rabbits are hindgut fermenters. That means their vegetable-digesting system occurs in the latter half of the gut. Rabbits don’t digest vegetable matter on their own. Food passes through the stomach and then is further digested, and the building blocks are absorbed from the intestines to the bloodstream. Animals can’t digest the coarse cell walls that make up vegetation. They have to rely on bacteria in their gut to ferment the products. Then, they digest the bacteria and all the material they’ve made. Because this bacterial digestion system occurs well down the road in the mid intestines (primarily a portion called the cecum), a lot of the digested material is wasted and leaves the body through the poop. To recover this important source of nutrition, rabbits tend to poop the cecal pellets at night and then eat these so-called night feces. Urine Marking and Aggression Next, there’s the problem of urine. It’s hard to believe, but these cuddly creatures are unmistakably territorial. They’ll mark their area, and some will bite and scratch both two- and four-legged trespassers. Getting Bunny spayed or neutered at five to six months old will eliminate most of the marking and can double or triple their life span by preventing fatal reproductive-tract cancers. Good socialization and rewarding appropriate behavior can fix the rest. Regular, short, gentle handling sessions where the rabbit is well supported can turn a ho-hum pet into a wonderful, sociable companion—one that can even learn to greet you on cue or perform simple tricks. This handling should start before three months of age since the sensitive period for developing social bonds and learning to recognize that being handled, people, and other pets is safe occurs in the early weeks of life. Different people, including visitors, should handle bunnies so they learn that visitors are safe to be with, too. They will learn even faster if you give them treats to nibble on while you’re handling them and when putting them in new situations. Then, they will associate the handling and new situations with good things. If they are hungry but won’t eat, that indicates the situation is scary. Medical Issues Besides these behavioral aspects, rabbits require additional considerations. Rabbits require lots of care, possibly more than a cat or a dog. They have dietary needs that are more specific than a dog’s, and husbandry is such a major issue that if you’re not paying attention, problems can arise before you even have any idea. Veterinarians commonly see problems of benign neglect. Owners usually aren’t purposely neglecting their rabbits, they just haven't learned how to properly care for them. Such problems include teeth so overgrown that Bunny can’t eat, urine burns on the tummy, and malnutrition. Additionally, because rabbits are prey animals, without thorough socialization, they stress easily and, like cats, hide their diseases for a long time. That means that when we finally realize they’re sick, they’re pretty far along. To prevent problems from sneaking up on your bunny, examine them daily for physical problems and bring them in yearly for veterinary checkups. By now, it’s clear that bunnies require unique care. And maybe an Easter bunny is not right for you. But for those owners who can meet their needs, bunnies can make unique companions. Credit: VIN Choking: First Aid
Gfeller, DVM, DACVECC; Michael Thomas, DVM; Isaac Mayo; The VIN Emergency Medicine Consultants Revised: March 21, 2023 Published: December 31, 1994 Choking is interference with breathing caused by foreign material in, or compression on, the trachea (windpipe). Thankfully, true choking is a very rare occurrence. Many pet owners will seek veterinary care because they believe their pet has something stuck in its throat, and this is rarely the case. It is far more likely that your pet has something mild and infectious such as tracheobronchitis (commonly called kennel cough) and is coughing or gagging rather than choking. Frequently, coughing is confused with choking. Both cause the pet to forcefully exhale. With choking, the pet has difficulty inhaling. When coughing, the pet can inhale almost normally. Be careful to distinguish the two: attempting to give first aid to a pet who is merely coughing can cause injury. If you are in any doubt, have your pet evaluated by a veterinarian. To properly evaluate the throat, pets will require sedation and some will require evaluation with a fiber-optic endoscope or X-rays to look for foreign material. Note, however, that the throat normally contains small bones (the larynx, or voicebox), and since this area is rarely X-rayed, it may be difficult to determine if something abnormal is present. If the Pet is Unconscious Perform a Finger Sweep Open your pet's mouth and do a finger sweep by placing your finger along the inside of the mouth, sliding it down toward the center of the throat over the base of the tongue, and gently "sweeping" toward the center to remove any foreign material. Warning: there is a structure deep in the throat (Adam's apple) that feels like a smooth bone. Do not attempt to pull it out! Begin Rescue Breathing Rescue breathing is described in the article on CPR. If air is not entering the lungs, slap the chest wall firmly or perform the Heimlich maneuver by putting the pet on their back, placing your hands over the abdomen near the bottom of the rib cage, and gently but firmly thrusting toward the spine. Perform a finger sweep and begin rescue breathing. Repeat until the foreign body is clear and the lungs can be inflated. Transport to the veterinarian right away. If the Pet is Conscious Perform a finger sweep only if it will not excite the pet. Do not perform a finger sweep if you believe your pet will bite you. Stay calm and try to keep the pet calm. If the pet is overheated, cool them with cold water applied to their extremities (ears and feet) and belly, and transport them to the nearest veterinarian or veterinary emergency clinic if there is one in your area. Running the air conditioning in the car on the way may help keep them cool. Credit: VIN Heat stroke can be a life-threatening condition and requires immediate treatment
Revised: June 19, 2023 Published: May 02, 2014 By Tony Johnson, DVM, DACVECC Hey! You! Yes – you. You know that feeling when you get in a hot car after it’s been sitting, baking in the sweltering sun all day? That cloying, sweaty, Corinthian-leather-sticking-to-the-back-of-your-thighs, tight in the chest, oh-when-will-the-A/C-kick-in feeling? Well, add in a heavy fur coat and the inability to sweat and that’s your dog in a hot car. Dogs die in hot cars – it’s even the name of a band (pretty catchy tunes, too). But beyond the funny band names, the reality of the situation is no laughing matter. I don’t want to dwell on the morbid reality of just what goes on inside the car when a dog is stuck in there on a hot day, so instead I’ll provide this list of alternate things you can do inside a hot car:
What does a dog look like in a hot car? Miserable is what. It looks like a miserable, sad, melting dog. And they’re not just uncomfortable – after just a few minutes, uncomfortable slides over into wretched agony which then runs right the heck into blood-boiling deadly. And dogs don’t sweat to get rid of body heat – they can’t sweat. Mother Nature let the summer intern design the whole canine HVAC system. Instead they pant to try and dissipate the extra heat. But since they are locked in with no ventilation, they only make more heat by trying to pant. After a bit, they give up on panting and just sort of droop like an over-boiled noodle. And after that…well, you get the picture. Just how long it takes to go from happy tail-waggity pup to one who is peeing on heavenly fire hydrants depends on the size of the dog and the heat and humidity of the day, but it is safe to say that in just a few minutes, you can go from new-car smell to hot car hell. So the first way to prevent this sad turn of events is to leave the pooch (or cat, or capybara or whatever) at home and ask Aunt Gladys to watch over them while you run to the store for more Mogen David (L’chaim!) or rutabaga to go with the lutefisk (Uff da!). In all the cases that I have ever treated ― and I have treated many, many, many, too many cases of heat stroke ― the situation was entirely preventable. The guilt and shame felt by those owners were immense, and they could have saved themselves a whole world of heartache (not to mention keeping a whole buncha dogs here on earth where they belong) if only they had stopped and thought for a sec about the dangers of heat stroke in a hot car, or made some alternate pooch plans. Is it still even a thing? Sad to say, but – yes. Dogs are left in hot cars every day. The only way to prevent it is to raise awareness, as we here at VetzInsight are trying to do. Plus we are pushing lutefisk as a nutritious snack for Norwegians and non-Norwegians alike – this PSA has been brought to you by a generous grant from the North American Lutefisk Isn’t as Gross and Slimy as You’ve Been Led to Believe Council®. If you do see a dog in a hot car, first try and (calmly, gently) find the owner and see if they will get the dog out. Go to the store that they are likely in and ask the management to make an announcement over the PA. Alternatively, you could hop the counter at Customer Service, grab the mic and start screaming “Will the troglodyte who locked their dog in a hot car please go get them out before I find you and go all Pompeii on your buttocks?” Either is an effective strategy, just one is more fun. The NA Lutefisk IAGASAYBLTB Council® frowns on property destruction, so smashing a car window with a brick and busting out the dog all on your lonesome is a step best reserved for desperate cases and those with adequate legal counsel. Calling for help from the police is always a good idea when you see a dog in a hot car; let them deal with the troglodytes and window-smashing bricks. Wouldn’t that leave you with more time to go soak your whitefish in lye? When you get the dog out of the scalding car, what do you do? Job #1 is to get them cooled down, and cold water is the best way to do it. Soak them, put a fan on them, and get them in the shade. Minus the lye, it is similar to preparing whitefish for lutefisk. If they can drink (meaning, no vomiting and they are able to hold their head up) then drinking cool water will help. If they can’t get up, have trouble breathing or just seem droopy and melty, stop making lutefisk and get them to a veterinary emergency hospital posthaste! (Which means ‘now’ only sooner.) The faster they are cooled off and the sooner they get medical attention, the better their chances are for recovery. You could also use their erstwhile instrument of destruction – the car – to save the day. Crank the A/C, and drive them to a vet hospital! It has a sort of beautiful ironic symmetry to it (kind of like the palindromic Finnish word saippuakalasalakauppias, which means “lutefisk smuggler.” I did not make that up!) Your course of action is now as clear as an unmuddied lake or a Norwegian fjord:
Credit: VetzInsight - VIN Blog Bob Judd, DVM, DABVP (Equine Medicine), DABVP (Canine and Feline Practice) Courtesy of Texas Farm Bureau Radio Network Published: July 27, 2015Miniature pigs have become popular as pets and although their size makes them appropriate as pets, Drs. Amy Woods and Valerie Tynes indicate in Diseases of Swine that people wanting miniature pigs as pets need to realize they are still pigs. One concern about these miniature pigs is their behavior, as some tend to become aggressive to humans and it is important not to ignore this problem. This aggression typically begins as the pig matures and the pig must be taught that humans are the leaders of the group. To accomplish this, it is important for these pigs to wear a harness made specifically for miniature pigs, and they should be taught to respond to a command such as sit before getting a treat. Just like larger pigs, these miniature pigs do not do well with restraint. You can hold them in your arms to examine them and examine them as they are being fed. Otherwise, most procedures performed on miniature pigs will go much smoother for the vet, owner, and pig with sedation. Most pigs do very well with sedation and it is really helpful for routine procedures like hoof trimming and trimming of the canine teeth. Obesity is a common problem in miniature pigs due to lack of exercise and improper feeding. Obesity contributes to chronic lameness and even blindness secondary to excessive fat accumulation around the eyes. These pigs need to be fed a commercial diet for pigs with no human food, and the food can be placed in food-dispensing toys to make the pigs expend more calories to get their food. Also, before getting a miniature pig, make sure it is legal to have them in your community. Realize they are considered farm animals by the government. Consequently, the medications used are restricted as they are for commercial pigs on the farm. Credit: VIN Phyllis DeGioia, Veterinary Partner Editor Date Published: 09/22/2003 Date Reviewed/Revised: 04/06/2021 Photo courtesy of Amanda L. Hill/NOAAPet owners want to do what's best for their pets in case of a disaster. For reasons related to health and space, pets are sometimes not allowed in public emergency shelters or must be in animal-specific shelters. Disaster animal sheltering is addressed first at the local level, so check with your local authorities once a year, typically in the early spring, so you know or remember what to expect. The worst scenario, leaving your pets at home, can usually be avoided. The Humane Society of the United States (HSUS), the Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA), and the American Red Cross work together in the U.S. during disasters. The agencies agree that you should keep your pets with you if at all possible, and agree that if your home isn't safe for you, it isn't safe for your pets. The HSUS recommends that you put together a disaster supply kit packed in a waterproof container for your pets. The container should have three days to a week's worth of food and water, medications, veterinary records, leashes or harnesses, a current photo of your pets for identification purposes, paper towels, litter pan and litter if you have a cat, sealable plastic bags, and an extra leash and collar. Use flip-top canned food or include a can opener. Place the photos in a sealable plastic bag. These items will be of use whether you evacuate or are sheltered in place. If your pet has medication that must be kept cool, keep the medication in one of the sealable plastic bags and ice it with ice from the Red Cross. The HSUS recommends that you have a carrier for each one of your pets. Replace the food in your disaster kit on a regular basis so that it doesn't spoil. Temporary paper tags from an office supply store can be used as alternative identification tags could be useful if you need to put a relative's phone number on the pet. The Cat Fanciers' Association recommends that if you have to confine cat(s) for a long period of time, have a carrier large enough to hold a shoebox-sized litter box, a water and food dish, and room for the cat(s) to comfortably lie down. Ensure the carrier is properly ventilated and not left in the sun. The Association says that if you must take the cat out, do so in a confined space as the cat may try to run away. If you shelter in your own place, keep an eye on their whereabouts in case you need to evacuate. It's best to bring them inside. Some animals will hide during severe weather changes, so bring them inside early and leash them when they are outside with you. Keep plastic bags and newspapers inside to clean up pet waste. Having a buddy system in place before the disaster strikes is helpful, particularly if you are not at home when the disaster hits but your pets are. The buddy system allows a neighbor to have access to your home so your pets can be fed or removed by your neighbor. You can do the same for them. If you need to evacuate, bring your pets with you even if you think you'll only be gone for a few hours; the severity of disasters can change quickly, and you may not be allowed to go back to your home to get them. It will help calm your pet if you bring a favorite blanket or toys. Evacuating will be much easier if you already know in advance where you can go. Both the HSUS and FEMA suggest you contact hotels and motels outside your area so you know which ones accept pets; ask in advance about any restrictions on number, size, and species. Also ask if no pet policies are waived in an emergency. Make a list of the places you can go to and keep it with your emergency phone numbers; include area kennels on your list. Call ahead for a reservation as soon as you think you might have to leave your home. Some local animal shelters allow pets to stay there during an emergency; find out in advance if yours does. Shelters have limited resources and space and their energies will be elsewhere during an emergency, so use this as a last resort. FEMA urges people to leave early and not wait for a mandatory evacuation order. If you delay leaving until emergency officials insist upon it, you may be told to leave your pets behind in a formal evacuation. Unfortunately, there are times when no matter how solid your plans are, the specifics of the emergency dictate that your pets must remain at home. If your dog normally wears a chain link choker collar, have a leather or nylon collar available if you have to leave the dog alone for several days. FEMA suggests that you leave a two or three day supply of dry food, even if it's not the pet's usual food. Don't moisten the food. Leave the food in a sturdy container that the pet cannot overturn. Leave water in a no-spill container. If possible, open a faucet slightly and let the water drip into a big container. Large dogs may be able to obtain fresh water from a partially filled bathtub. Leave the pets in the safest room in the house, such as a basement or bathroom. Other Pets Birds The American Red Cross suggests that birds should be transported in a secure travel cage or carrier. In cold weather, wrap a blanket over the carrier and warm up the car before placing birds inside. During warm weather, carry a plant mister to mist the birds' feathers periodically. Do not put water inside the carrier during transport. Put some fresh fruits and vegetables with high water content in the carrier. Have a photo for identification and leg bands. If the carrier doesn't have a perch, line it with paper towels and change them frequently. Don't let the birds out of the cage or carrier. Reptiles Snakes can be transported in a pillowcase but they must be transferred to more secure housing when they reach the evacuation site. If your snakes require frequent feedings, carry food with you. Take a water bowl large enough for soaking as well as a heating pad. When transporting house lizards, follow the same directions as for birds. For more information, see Emergency Planning for Reptile and Amphibian Collections. Small Mammals Small mammals (hamsters, gerbils, rabbits, guinea pigs, etc.) should be transported in secure carriers suitable for maintaining the animals while sheltered. Take bedding materials, food bowls, and water bottles. Livestock and Horses Livestock and horses have specific disaster needs that must be planned for in advance. Credit: VIN Wendy Brooks, DVM, DABVP Date Published: 01/01/2001 Date Reviewed/Revised: 07/22/2022 What is Asthma? Asthma is a recurring respiratory compromise featuring the constriction (narrowing) of the lung’s airways. There are three features that define asthma: • Airway inflammation • Airway hyper-responsiveness • Reduced airflow (which is at least partly reversible) More simply, this means the airways of the lungs are inflamed, plus they are extra reactive to mental stress or respiratory irritants, and the flow of air through the lungs is reduced (either sometimes or all the time). When all three features are present, we can be comfortable diagnosing asthma. What Exactly is Happening in the Lungs with Asthma? First, excess mucus forms in the airways. After that, the airway walls swell with inflammation and can actually ulcerate. Finally, the airway muscles go into spasms leading to constriction. Airway constriction leads to an inability to draw a deep breath, intolerance to exercise, coughing, and musical sighing sounds called “wheezes,” though not all these symptoms may be apparent at the same time. Feline Asthma, Airways and TriggersSometimes a low-grade chronic cough is the only evident sign, but it should be remembered that a sudden asthmatic crisis can arise at any time and can represent a life-threatening event. Asthmatic airway constriction can happen spontaneously, in reaction to stress or anxiety, or as a type of allergic reaction. Relieving and preventing airway constriction is the main focus of treatment. Is Feline Asthma the Same as Human Asthma? The feline condition was named asthma because of the clinical features shared with the human disease. As of this time, it appears that all the diagnostic criteria needed to diagnose asthma in people are shared by cats, yet we are still working out the mechanics of this syndrome in cats and have a great deal to learn. For example, in humans, we know that while actual symptoms of asthma occur in episodes, the airways of the lung are diseased all the time. We do not know yet if feline airways are also diseased all the time or if the actual airway structural changes occur only when there are clinical signs of distress. How is the Diagnosis Made? Because of the constricted airways, the actual volume of air this patient can move in and out of the lungs with each breath is reduced. There is often a great deal of effort seen in the cat’s breathing. The abdomen appears to be working to push air out and the breaths are shallow and rapid. The cat may even be breathing with its mouth open in an effort to move the largest possible amount of air. The next step toward making a diagnosis of feline asthma is the chest radiograph, assuming the cat is not in too much distress to hold still for this procedure. Classically, this radiograph will show what is called air-trapping, meaning that the small airways have constricted so that inhaled air cannot be exhaled. The lungs are larger in appearance than normal as they are over-inflated. The diaphragm may seem flattened due to this over-inflation. It is possible to view the tiny airways in much higher detail on radiographs. This is partly because they are made more prominent because of the mucus and inflammatory fluid inside them (the doughnuts and tramlines, as mentioned below) and partly because they are surrounded by more air than usual (air-trapping). Inflammation and mucus build up within the airways, causing their walls to appear thickened in the radiograph. The terms used for such airway appearance are doughnuts (when viewing the airway end-on) or tramlines (when viewing the airway from the side). You may hear your veterinarian use these terms, and they are classical findings in airway disease. Some Asthmatic Cats Have Normal Radiographs Since visible changes are not always evident on radiographs, which can lead to diagnosing asthma when it is not there. Indeed, diagnosing asthma can be complicated, and it is famously underdiagnosed because up to 23% of asthmatic cats can have completely normal radiographs. The coughing cat with normal chest radiographs poses a diagnostic dilemma. It is hard enough to sort out potential issues when there actually are radiographic changes, as many conditions can mimic others. Because of the nature of feline heart disease, where the heart muscle can thicken without the overall external shape of the heart changing, heart disease should be considered. In heartworm-endemic areas, feline heartworm disease should be considered. If the patient is thought not to have too high of an anesthetic risk, a tracheal wash and/or bronchoscopy can be considered but often have indefinite results. CT (cat scan) imaging is emerging as a helpful diagnostic tool, but it is not yet available in many areas. Response to Therapy as a Diagnostic Test One important asthma feature is that the airway constriction it engenders is reversible. In an emergency situation, a small dose of epinephrine (adrenalin) or terbutaline (which expands airways) can reverse an asthmatic crisis in as little as 15 minutes. Response to an injectable corticosteroid (such as dexamethasone) generally yields a positive response within 30 minutes. Sometimes, diagnostic tests still leave room for questions, and you have to simply go with medical treatment for asthma and regard response to therapy as evidence that the diagnosis is correct. See below for a list of medications commonly used in the long-term management of this problem. Treatment Options Oral and Injectable Steroids It is crucial to realize that the underlying problem in the airway is inflammation. Inflammation is what is responsible for constriction. To resolve inflammation, corticosteroid medications have been the cornerstone of therapy. These can be given in pills, by injection, or, more recently, through a metered dose inhaler. Usually, treatment is started with either an oral corticosteroid such as prednisolone or a long-acting injection such as Depo-Medrol. These medications are relatively inexpensive, and a good response to them helps confirm the diagnosis, as mentioned. A better strategy might be to use oral or injectable steroids to ensure that they work and if they do, change to a metered dose inhaler (see below), as there is much less potential for corticosteroid side effects with an inhaler. If the response to oral corticosteroids is good, they may be continued long-term, supplemented with some of the other medications mentioned below, or used only during flare-ups. Long-term corticosteroid use has some potential for side effects, though feline patients tend to be resistant to these problems. If giving pills is too difficult, especially in a cat that is stressed and having some trouble breathing, a long-acting corticosteroid injection can be used periodically to control asthma symptoms. Cats are more sensitive to potential side effects from these injections as they are much stronger than oral corticosteroids. This sensitivity means that injections can only be given periodically without the risk of developing diabetes mellitus. If the cat seems to require an injection more frequently than every other month, a metered dose inhaler should be considered (see below for details). When using oral corticosteroids, it is important to taper the dose over time so as to find the minimum dose needed to control symptoms. If higher doses are used indefinitely, asthma symptoms may become resistant to steroids. This resistance is more of a problem with injectable steroids and manifests as a shorter and shorter interval between the need for the injection. Again, if this is seen, consider changing to an inhaled form of medication. Metered Dose Inhalers Human asthmatics have enjoyed the benefits of portable inhalers for years. These handy devices deliver medication locally to the airways, thus minimizing drug side effects to the rest of the body while maximizing desired response. There were two problems with using these devices in cats:
Interestingly these same problems apply to human infants with asthma and a device called a pediatric spacer was invented for them. This tubular chamber is attached to the inhaler on one end and a face mask on the other. The inhaler is actuated into the spacer and the infant simply breathes in the spacer’s contents. The discovery that the pediatric spacer could also be used for cats has solved the feline inhaler problem as well. The setup is the same as described above for young children and the cat takes 7 to 10 breaths from the face mask to be properly dosed. Corticosteroid inhalers, Flovent® being the most popular, are typically used twice daily long term while airway dilator inhalers such as albuterol-containing Proventil® or Ventolin® are used for flare-ups. Cats are generally started on a combination of oral prednisone and the metered dose inhaler and gradually maintained on only the metered dose inhaler. Pediatric equipment is generally available from most human pharmacies, however, a device created specifically for feline use can be ordered. It comes with a spacer and an appropriately sized face mask. Your veterinarian will need to prescribe the metered dose inhaler usually from a regular human pharmacy. See the Aerokat device. Are there other Treatment Options? Other medications that might be helpful include: Allergen-Specific Immunotherapy Since allergy is generally a part of the asthma picture, it makes sense that "allergy shots" might be helpful. In fact, they are helpful to many cats. It is important to realize that this form of therapy takes months before benefits are obvious so it is not a method for fast relief but more for the "bigger picture." The owner must be able to give injections to the patient at home regularly. A veterinary dermatologist is generally needed to oversee this type of therapy. Airway Dilators Terbutaline (Brethine®) and theophylline are airway dilators commonly used in the management of asthma. It makes sense that if constriction is an important feature of this disease that eliminating constriction would be therapeutically helpful. Terbutaline is available orally or as an injectable. Some veterinarians encourage owners to keep a bottle of injectable terbutaline at home in case of a crisis and show them how to give it. If you are interested in this, let your veterinarian know. Theophylline is an oral medication usually given once a day at bedtime. Cyclosporine The use of cyclosporine in asthma is relatively new. Cyclosporine is an immunomodulator often used in organ transplant patients. It has been used occasionally in cats where adequate suppression of inflammation has not been possible with combinations of the other medications listed or when the cat is unable to take corticosteroids for other reasons (concurrent diabetes mellitus, infection, history of calcium oxalate bladder stones, etc.). Cyclosporine should not be prohibitively expensive since cats, being small, require relatively small doses but blood levels of cyclosporine may be periodically recommended which increases the expense of this treatment significantly. Don’t Forget... Minimizing irritants in the air is always helpful to an asthmatic cat.
For more details, including a video on the use of the inhaled system, we recommend visiting Fritz the Brave, a website set up by one family devoted to their asthmatic cat. It has grown into a detailed instructional site for both pet owners and veterinarians interested in the details of inhalers for feline asthma treatment. Credit: VIN Elbow Hygromas in Dogs
Wendy Brooks, DVM, DABVP Date Published: 02/04/2007 Date Reviewed/Revised: 03/06/2024 The usual patient for this condition is a short-haired, large breed dog, usually an adolescent, brought to the veterinarian for a fluid-filled swelling at the point of one or both elbows. The swelling is generally non-painful but can be quite bulbous and bizarre looking. What has happened is relatively simple: the dog has most likely been resting on a fairly hard surface and the pressure of their weight has created tissue damage over the elbow bones. The area is not able to heal because of the repeated tissue damage from the dog simply resting on their elbows. A fluid pocket forms as the body attempts to create its own cushion. This fluid pocket is called a hygroma. The most common location for a hygroma is the elbow, though they can occur on the "sit bones" of the pelvis as well. The Uncomplicated Hygroma The simple or uncomplicated hygroma is not painful and is mostly of cosmetic concern. Changing the dog’s bedding generally solves the problem though sometimes elbow pads or bandages must be constructed or purchased. If the dog begins to lie on softer, more pliant materials, the hygroma is likely to simply resolve over two to three weeks as the inflammatory tissue is able to scar down. It is best not to tap off the fluid as any time the hygroma is pierced, infection can be introduced, potentially creating a complicated hygroma. Surgery on a hygroma should be avoided if possible for reasons described later on. Treatment for uncomplicated hygroma is basically changing the bedding or surface upon which the dog lies. The Complicated Hygroma Complicated hygroma after surgical healing is complete. The callus did not require removal here. Photo by MarVistaVet.If the hygroma becomes infected, it will become tender and surgical drainage becomes necessary. If the surface of the hygroma is not ulcerated, it can be drained and flushed. Rubber drains can be inserted into it to allow for further drainage into bandages. The bandages should be changed daily but it should resolve after a couple of weeks. If only drains are needed and no trimming is needed, the natural callus on the elbow will be preserved to protect the area; any surgery that disrupts the natural callus is asking for trouble. Any time a hygroma is lanced and opened, the potential exists for the area to be unable to heal. After all, the reason the hygroma formed in the first place is because the damaged soft tissue was unable to heal. The extensive motion of the elbow area also hampers healing. Establishing soft bedding is critical. If the hygroma is infected, there is no choice but to flush and drain it. Treatment for the infected but not ulcerated hygroma is placing a surgical drain in addition to changing bedding as above. If the hygroma is severely proliferative or chronically draining, or basically has a big sore on it, a more extensive surgery is needed. The callus is too far gone and must be removed. Skin flaps or even grafts may be needed to reconstruct the skin after the infected callus is removed. A splint will likely be needed to sufficiently pad and immobilize the leg during healing, which takes a month or so. As mentioned, the motion of the area works against healing, and removing the natural callus and elbow soft tissue is also an obstacle. It is important to recognize the hygroma early in its course so that it need not progress to a complicated status. If you are unsure about any swelling on a pet, see your veterinarian promptly. Other Hygromas Technically, a hygroma can form over any bony protuberance that repeatedly receives the patient's weight. The elbow is the most common area to form a hygroma but the "sit bones" of the pelvis is the second most likely area. These are called ischial hygromas and look like swellings under the tail right where the dog sits down. Again, softer bedding generally resolves the problem. Credit: VIN |
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