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Bob Judd, DVM, DABVP (Equine Medicine), DABVP (Canine and Feline Practice) Courtesy of Texas Farm Bureau Radio Network Published: July 27, 2015Miniature pigs have become popular as pets and although their size makes them appropriate as pets, Drs. Amy Woods and Valerie Tynes indicate in Diseases of Swine that people wanting miniature pigs as pets need to realize they are still pigs. One concern about these miniature pigs is their behavior, as some tend to become aggressive to humans and it is important not to ignore this problem. This aggression typically begins as the pig matures and the pig must be taught that humans are the leaders of the group. To accomplish this, it is important for these pigs to wear a harness made specifically for miniature pigs, and they should be taught to respond to a command such as sit before getting a treat. Just like larger pigs, these miniature pigs do not do well with restraint. You can hold them in your arms to examine them and examine them as they are being fed. Otherwise, most procedures performed on miniature pigs will go much smoother for the vet, owner, and pig with sedation. Most pigs do very well with sedation and it is really helpful for routine procedures like hoof trimming and trimming of the canine teeth. Obesity is a common problem in miniature pigs due to lack of exercise and improper feeding. Obesity contributes to chronic lameness and even blindness secondary to excessive fat accumulation around the eyes. These pigs need to be fed a commercial diet for pigs with no human food, and the food can be placed in food-dispensing toys to make the pigs expend more calories to get their food. Also, before getting a miniature pig, make sure it is legal to have them in your community. Realize they are considered farm animals by the government. Consequently, the medications used are restricted as they are for commercial pigs on the farm. Credit: VIN
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Phyllis DeGioia, Veterinary Partner Editor Date Published: 09/22/2003 Date Reviewed/Revised: 04/06/2021 Photo courtesy of Amanda L. Hill/NOAAPet owners want to do what's best for their pets in case of a disaster. For reasons related to health and space, pets are sometimes not allowed in public emergency shelters or must be in animal-specific shelters. Disaster animal sheltering is addressed first at the local level, so check with your local authorities once a year, typically in the early spring, so you know or remember what to expect. The worst scenario, leaving your pets at home, can usually be avoided. The Humane Society of the United States (HSUS), the Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA), and the American Red Cross work together in the U.S. during disasters. The agencies agree that you should keep your pets with you if at all possible, and agree that if your home isn't safe for you, it isn't safe for your pets. The HSUS recommends that you put together a disaster supply kit packed in a waterproof container for your pets. The container should have three days to a week's worth of food and water, medications, veterinary records, leashes or harnesses, a current photo of your pets for identification purposes, paper towels, litter pan and litter if you have a cat, sealable plastic bags, and an extra leash and collar. Use flip-top canned food or include a can opener. Place the photos in a sealable plastic bag. These items will be of use whether you evacuate or are sheltered in place. If your pet has medication that must be kept cool, keep the medication in one of the sealable plastic bags and ice it with ice from the Red Cross. The HSUS recommends that you have a carrier for each one of your pets. Replace the food in your disaster kit on a regular basis so that it doesn't spoil. Temporary paper tags from an office supply store can be used as alternative identification tags could be useful if you need to put a relative's phone number on the pet. The Cat Fanciers' Association recommends that if you have to confine cat(s) for a long period of time, have a carrier large enough to hold a shoebox-sized litter box, a water and food dish, and room for the cat(s) to comfortably lie down. Ensure the carrier is properly ventilated and not left in the sun. The Association says that if you must take the cat out, do so in a confined space as the cat may try to run away. If you shelter in your own place, keep an eye on their whereabouts in case you need to evacuate. It's best to bring them inside. Some animals will hide during severe weather changes, so bring them inside early and leash them when they are outside with you. Keep plastic bags and newspapers inside to clean up pet waste. Having a buddy system in place before the disaster strikes is helpful, particularly if you are not at home when the disaster hits but your pets are. The buddy system allows a neighbor to have access to your home so your pets can be fed or removed by your neighbor. You can do the same for them. If you need to evacuate, bring your pets with you even if you think you'll only be gone for a few hours; the severity of disasters can change quickly, and you may not be allowed to go back to your home to get them. It will help calm your pet if you bring a favorite blanket or toys. Evacuating will be much easier if you already know in advance where you can go. Both the HSUS and FEMA suggest you contact hotels and motels outside your area so you know which ones accept pets; ask in advance about any restrictions on number, size, and species. Also ask if no pet policies are waived in an emergency. Make a list of the places you can go to and keep it with your emergency phone numbers; include area kennels on your list. Call ahead for a reservation as soon as you think you might have to leave your home. Some local animal shelters allow pets to stay there during an emergency; find out in advance if yours does. Shelters have limited resources and space and their energies will be elsewhere during an emergency, so use this as a last resort. FEMA urges people to leave early and not wait for a mandatory evacuation order. If you delay leaving until emergency officials insist upon it, you may be told to leave your pets behind in a formal evacuation. Unfortunately, there are times when no matter how solid your plans are, the specifics of the emergency dictate that your pets must remain at home. If your dog normally wears a chain link choker collar, have a leather or nylon collar available if you have to leave the dog alone for several days. FEMA suggests that you leave a two or three day supply of dry food, even if it's not the pet's usual food. Don't moisten the food. Leave the food in a sturdy container that the pet cannot overturn. Leave water in a no-spill container. If possible, open a faucet slightly and let the water drip into a big container. Large dogs may be able to obtain fresh water from a partially filled bathtub. Leave the pets in the safest room in the house, such as a basement or bathroom. Other Pets Birds The American Red Cross suggests that birds should be transported in a secure travel cage or carrier. In cold weather, wrap a blanket over the carrier and warm up the car before placing birds inside. During warm weather, carry a plant mister to mist the birds' feathers periodically. Do not put water inside the carrier during transport. Put some fresh fruits and vegetables with high water content in the carrier. Have a photo for identification and leg bands. If the carrier doesn't have a perch, line it with paper towels and change them frequently. Don't let the birds out of the cage or carrier. Reptiles Snakes can be transported in a pillowcase but they must be transferred to more secure housing when they reach the evacuation site. If your snakes require frequent feedings, carry food with you. Take a water bowl large enough for soaking as well as a heating pad. When transporting house lizards, follow the same directions as for birds. For more information, see Emergency Planning for Reptile and Amphibian Collections. Small Mammals Small mammals (hamsters, gerbils, rabbits, guinea pigs, etc.) should be transported in secure carriers suitable for maintaining the animals while sheltered. Take bedding materials, food bowls, and water bottles. Livestock and Horses Livestock and horses have specific disaster needs that must be planned for in advance. Credit: VIN Wendy Brooks, DVM, DABVP Date Published: 01/01/2001 Date Reviewed/Revised: 07/22/2022 What is Asthma? Asthma is a recurring respiratory compromise featuring the constriction (narrowing) of the lung’s airways. There are three features that define asthma: • Airway inflammation • Airway hyper-responsiveness • Reduced airflow (which is at least partly reversible) More simply, this means the airways of the lungs are inflamed, plus they are extra reactive to mental stress or respiratory irritants, and the flow of air through the lungs is reduced (either sometimes or all the time). When all three features are present, we can be comfortable diagnosing asthma. What Exactly is Happening in the Lungs with Asthma? First, excess mucus forms in the airways. After that, the airway walls swell with inflammation and can actually ulcerate. Finally, the airway muscles go into spasms leading to constriction. Airway constriction leads to an inability to draw a deep breath, intolerance to exercise, coughing, and musical sighing sounds called “wheezes,” though not all these symptoms may be apparent at the same time. Feline Asthma, Airways and TriggersSometimes a low-grade chronic cough is the only evident sign, but it should be remembered that a sudden asthmatic crisis can arise at any time and can represent a life-threatening event. Asthmatic airway constriction can happen spontaneously, in reaction to stress or anxiety, or as a type of allergic reaction. Relieving and preventing airway constriction is the main focus of treatment. Is Feline Asthma the Same as Human Asthma? The feline condition was named asthma because of the clinical features shared with the human disease. As of this time, it appears that all the diagnostic criteria needed to diagnose asthma in people are shared by cats, yet we are still working out the mechanics of this syndrome in cats and have a great deal to learn. For example, in humans, we know that while actual symptoms of asthma occur in episodes, the airways of the lung are diseased all the time. We do not know yet if feline airways are also diseased all the time or if the actual airway structural changes occur only when there are clinical signs of distress. How is the Diagnosis Made? Because of the constricted airways, the actual volume of air this patient can move in and out of the lungs with each breath is reduced. There is often a great deal of effort seen in the cat’s breathing. The abdomen appears to be working to push air out and the breaths are shallow and rapid. The cat may even be breathing with its mouth open in an effort to move the largest possible amount of air. The next step toward making a diagnosis of feline asthma is the chest radiograph, assuming the cat is not in too much distress to hold still for this procedure. Classically, this radiograph will show what is called air-trapping, meaning that the small airways have constricted so that inhaled air cannot be exhaled. The lungs are larger in appearance than normal as they are over-inflated. The diaphragm may seem flattened due to this over-inflation. It is possible to view the tiny airways in much higher detail on radiographs. This is partly because they are made more prominent because of the mucus and inflammatory fluid inside them (the doughnuts and tramlines, as mentioned below) and partly because they are surrounded by more air than usual (air-trapping). Inflammation and mucus build up within the airways, causing their walls to appear thickened in the radiograph. The terms used for such airway appearance are doughnuts (when viewing the airway end-on) or tramlines (when viewing the airway from the side). You may hear your veterinarian use these terms, and they are classical findings in airway disease. Some Asthmatic Cats Have Normal Radiographs Since visible changes are not always evident on radiographs, which can lead to diagnosing asthma when it is not there. Indeed, diagnosing asthma can be complicated, and it is famously underdiagnosed because up to 23% of asthmatic cats can have completely normal radiographs. The coughing cat with normal chest radiographs poses a diagnostic dilemma. It is hard enough to sort out potential issues when there actually are radiographic changes, as many conditions can mimic others. Because of the nature of feline heart disease, where the heart muscle can thicken without the overall external shape of the heart changing, heart disease should be considered. In heartworm-endemic areas, feline heartworm disease should be considered. If the patient is thought not to have too high of an anesthetic risk, a tracheal wash and/or bronchoscopy can be considered but often have indefinite results. CT (cat scan) imaging is emerging as a helpful diagnostic tool, but it is not yet available in many areas. Response to Therapy as a Diagnostic Test One important asthma feature is that the airway constriction it engenders is reversible. In an emergency situation, a small dose of epinephrine (adrenalin) or terbutaline (which expands airways) can reverse an asthmatic crisis in as little as 15 minutes. Response to an injectable corticosteroid (such as dexamethasone) generally yields a positive response within 30 minutes. Sometimes, diagnostic tests still leave room for questions, and you have to simply go with medical treatment for asthma and regard response to therapy as evidence that the diagnosis is correct. See below for a list of medications commonly used in the long-term management of this problem. Treatment Options Oral and Injectable Steroids It is crucial to realize that the underlying problem in the airway is inflammation. Inflammation is what is responsible for constriction. To resolve inflammation, corticosteroid medications have been the cornerstone of therapy. These can be given in pills, by injection, or, more recently, through a metered dose inhaler. Usually, treatment is started with either an oral corticosteroid such as prednisolone or a long-acting injection such as Depo-Medrol. These medications are relatively inexpensive, and a good response to them helps confirm the diagnosis, as mentioned. A better strategy might be to use oral or injectable steroids to ensure that they work and if they do, change to a metered dose inhaler (see below), as there is much less potential for corticosteroid side effects with an inhaler. If the response to oral corticosteroids is good, they may be continued long-term, supplemented with some of the other medications mentioned below, or used only during flare-ups. Long-term corticosteroid use has some potential for side effects, though feline patients tend to be resistant to these problems. If giving pills is too difficult, especially in a cat that is stressed and having some trouble breathing, a long-acting corticosteroid injection can be used periodically to control asthma symptoms. Cats are more sensitive to potential side effects from these injections as they are much stronger than oral corticosteroids. This sensitivity means that injections can only be given periodically without the risk of developing diabetes mellitus. If the cat seems to require an injection more frequently than every other month, a metered dose inhaler should be considered (see below for details). When using oral corticosteroids, it is important to taper the dose over time so as to find the minimum dose needed to control symptoms. If higher doses are used indefinitely, asthma symptoms may become resistant to steroids. This resistance is more of a problem with injectable steroids and manifests as a shorter and shorter interval between the need for the injection. Again, if this is seen, consider changing to an inhaled form of medication. Metered Dose Inhalers Human asthmatics have enjoyed the benefits of portable inhalers for years. These handy devices deliver medication locally to the airways, thus minimizing drug side effects to the rest of the body while maximizing desired response. There were two problems with using these devices in cats:
Interestingly these same problems apply to human infants with asthma and a device called a pediatric spacer was invented for them. This tubular chamber is attached to the inhaler on one end and a face mask on the other. The inhaler is actuated into the spacer and the infant simply breathes in the spacer’s contents. The discovery that the pediatric spacer could also be used for cats has solved the feline inhaler problem as well. The setup is the same as described above for young children and the cat takes 7 to 10 breaths from the face mask to be properly dosed. Corticosteroid inhalers, Flovent® being the most popular, are typically used twice daily long term while airway dilator inhalers such as albuterol-containing Proventil® or Ventolin® are used for flare-ups. Cats are generally started on a combination of oral prednisone and the metered dose inhaler and gradually maintained on only the metered dose inhaler. Pediatric equipment is generally available from most human pharmacies, however, a device created specifically for feline use can be ordered. It comes with a spacer and an appropriately sized face mask. Your veterinarian will need to prescribe the metered dose inhaler usually from a regular human pharmacy. See the Aerokat device. Are there other Treatment Options? Other medications that might be helpful include: Allergen-Specific Immunotherapy Since allergy is generally a part of the asthma picture, it makes sense that "allergy shots" might be helpful. In fact, they are helpful to many cats. It is important to realize that this form of therapy takes months before benefits are obvious so it is not a method for fast relief but more for the "bigger picture." The owner must be able to give injections to the patient at home regularly. A veterinary dermatologist is generally needed to oversee this type of therapy. Airway Dilators Terbutaline (Brethine®) and theophylline are airway dilators commonly used in the management of asthma. It makes sense that if constriction is an important feature of this disease that eliminating constriction would be therapeutically helpful. Terbutaline is available orally or as an injectable. Some veterinarians encourage owners to keep a bottle of injectable terbutaline at home in case of a crisis and show them how to give it. If you are interested in this, let your veterinarian know. Theophylline is an oral medication usually given once a day at bedtime. Cyclosporine The use of cyclosporine in asthma is relatively new. Cyclosporine is an immunomodulator often used in organ transplant patients. It has been used occasionally in cats where adequate suppression of inflammation has not been possible with combinations of the other medications listed or when the cat is unable to take corticosteroids for other reasons (concurrent diabetes mellitus, infection, history of calcium oxalate bladder stones, etc.). Cyclosporine should not be prohibitively expensive since cats, being small, require relatively small doses but blood levels of cyclosporine may be periodically recommended which increases the expense of this treatment significantly. Don’t Forget... Minimizing irritants in the air is always helpful to an asthmatic cat.
For more details, including a video on the use of the inhaled system, we recommend visiting Fritz the Brave, a website set up by one family devoted to their asthmatic cat. It has grown into a detailed instructional site for both pet owners and veterinarians interested in the details of inhalers for feline asthma treatment. Credit: VIN Elbow Hygromas in Dogs
Wendy Brooks, DVM, DABVP Date Published: 02/04/2007 Date Reviewed/Revised: 03/06/2024 The usual patient for this condition is a short-haired, large breed dog, usually an adolescent, brought to the veterinarian for a fluid-filled swelling at the point of one or both elbows. The swelling is generally non-painful but can be quite bulbous and bizarre looking. What has happened is relatively simple: the dog has most likely been resting on a fairly hard surface and the pressure of their weight has created tissue damage over the elbow bones. The area is not able to heal because of the repeated tissue damage from the dog simply resting on their elbows. A fluid pocket forms as the body attempts to create its own cushion. This fluid pocket is called a hygroma. The most common location for a hygroma is the elbow, though they can occur on the "sit bones" of the pelvis as well. The Uncomplicated Hygroma The simple or uncomplicated hygroma is not painful and is mostly of cosmetic concern. Changing the dog’s bedding generally solves the problem though sometimes elbow pads or bandages must be constructed or purchased. If the dog begins to lie on softer, more pliant materials, the hygroma is likely to simply resolve over two to three weeks as the inflammatory tissue is able to scar down. It is best not to tap off the fluid as any time the hygroma is pierced, infection can be introduced, potentially creating a complicated hygroma. Surgery on a hygroma should be avoided if possible for reasons described later on. Treatment for uncomplicated hygroma is basically changing the bedding or surface upon which the dog lies. The Complicated Hygroma Complicated hygroma after surgical healing is complete. The callus did not require removal here. Photo by MarVistaVet.If the hygroma becomes infected, it will become tender and surgical drainage becomes necessary. If the surface of the hygroma is not ulcerated, it can be drained and flushed. Rubber drains can be inserted into it to allow for further drainage into bandages. The bandages should be changed daily but it should resolve after a couple of weeks. If only drains are needed and no trimming is needed, the natural callus on the elbow will be preserved to protect the area; any surgery that disrupts the natural callus is asking for trouble. Any time a hygroma is lanced and opened, the potential exists for the area to be unable to heal. After all, the reason the hygroma formed in the first place is because the damaged soft tissue was unable to heal. The extensive motion of the elbow area also hampers healing. Establishing soft bedding is critical. If the hygroma is infected, there is no choice but to flush and drain it. Treatment for the infected but not ulcerated hygroma is placing a surgical drain in addition to changing bedding as above. If the hygroma is severely proliferative or chronically draining, or basically has a big sore on it, a more extensive surgery is needed. The callus is too far gone and must be removed. Skin flaps or even grafts may be needed to reconstruct the skin after the infected callus is removed. A splint will likely be needed to sufficiently pad and immobilize the leg during healing, which takes a month or so. As mentioned, the motion of the area works against healing, and removing the natural callus and elbow soft tissue is also an obstacle. It is important to recognize the hygroma early in its course so that it need not progress to a complicated status. If you are unsure about any swelling on a pet, see your veterinarian promptly. Other Hygromas Technically, a hygroma can form over any bony protuberance that repeatedly receives the patient's weight. The elbow is the most common area to form a hygroma but the "sit bones" of the pelvis is the second most likely area. These are called ischial hygromas and look like swellings under the tail right where the dog sits down. Again, softer bedding generally resolves the problem. Credit: VIN Common Diseases of Hedgehogs
Amanda McWreath, Veterinary Student Class of 2023 Date Published: 11/10/2020 Of the 17 different species of hedgehogs found throughout the world not a single one is native to North America, but that has not stopped these cute little immigrants from making their way into our homes and hearts throughout the United States. African pygmy hedgehogs, the most popular species to have as a pet, are adored for their cuteness and uniqueness in the animal kingdom. They are highly active nocturnal animals that spend their days resting and come alive at night to collect (and chase) their meals, which usually consist of fruits, vegetables, and insects in the wild. Hedgehogs enjoy a simple life of solitude, and they rely on their spikes and ability to curl up into a ball to protect them from the terrors of the outside world, which can include anything from owls and wolves in the wild to loud noises or new people in our homes. Hedgehogs usually live for anywhere from 4-6 years, and males should weigh between 500-700g (17.6-24.7 oz) whereas females should weigh around 250-400g (8.8-14.1 oz). As with any other species, there are certain diseases that we commonly see in hedgehogs ranging from obesity to neurological problems, and veterinarians can use the specific signs associated with each disease to determine which part of the body is being affected and what the best treatment will be. Skin Disease Skin diseases are fairly common in hedgehogs, and they typically lead to dry, scaly skin. Diagnosing these conditions can be done by taking skin scrapes and looking at them under a microscope or culturing them to see what irritants are causing the problem. Dermatophytosis is a skin disease common to hedgehogs that involves scaly areas around the base of the spines, which can be treated with topical antifungals. Mite infestations also include crusting and flaking of the skin and anti-parasitic drugs are used to eliminate the infestation; however, it is also important to keep your hedgehog’s environment clean and treat any other hedgehogs living in the home, as mites are very good at spreading through the environment- don’t worry, these mites are specific to hedgehogs. Obesity Obesity is a common issue seen in hedgehogs because most pet hedgehogs have unlimited access to food, likely in addition to not being active enough throughout the day. This combination can lead to a variety of problems from not being able to roll into a ball for protection to other more serious diseases like hepatic lipidosis (fatty liver disease). Prevention is the best way to approach obesity, which is why it is important that you feed appropriate amounts of high quality food to your hedgehog, provide enrichment opportunities that promote activity, and monitor their weight so that you can catch any weight gain early and adjust their diet accordingly. Getting a food scale to weigh your hedgehog on weekly is a great way to stay on top of their weight. Once an animal has become obese, treatment involves a weight loss program, which means fewer calories a day and more enrichment to promote activity. Offering insects to eat is a great way to increase a hedgehog’s activity level while also supporting their natural feeding behaviors and providing a valuable source of nutrients. Gastrointestinal Diseases Gastrointestinal diseases include anything that affects the mouth, esophagus, stomach, intestine, colon, or rectum. Signs to look out for include diarrhea, dehydration, decreased appetite, and weight loss. Salmonella infection, which is the most common type in hedgehogs, can be diagnosed with a fecal culture. Treatment involves supportive care and antibiotics. It is also important to consider that this bacteria can be spread to humans – Salmonella is a zoonotic disease - therefore, we must be careful when handling and treating potentially infected animals. Fractured teeth can make it difficult for your hedgehog to eat, which can lead to unwanted weight loss and excessive salivation. Dental radiographs and an oral exam can diagnose those bad teeth, and treatment includes pain medicine, antibiotics, and potentially even tooth extractions if the fracture is causing additional problems. Diarrhea and intestinal inflammation are somewhat non-specific signs, which means they can result from a variety of different problems ranging from an inappropriate diet to a bacterial infection. The specific cause of these issues can be diagnosed using diet trials, fecal cultures, and radiographs, and the specific findings will guide the treatment. One specific disease, Hepatic lipidosis, is relatively common in hedgehogs and can develop as a result of any disease that leads to a sudden lack of appetite, like infections or cancer. Cancer Cancer is unfortunately common in hedgehogs above the age of 3 years old. They can get many different types of cancer including squamous cell carcinomas, cutaneous mast cell tumors, mammary gland tumors, cutaneous hemangiosarcomas, and reproductive tumors, all of which must be removed. Signs vary based on the type of cancer that they have, but they can include difficulty eating, lethargy, weakness, swelling of the belly, weight loss, blood in the urine, or vaginal discharge. Diagnosis can potentially require bloodwork, radiographs, ultrasound, or a biopsy, and treatment involves removing the tumor, supportive care, and possibly chemotherapy and radiation. Heart Disease Heart disease in hedgehogs is usually in the form of dilated cardiomyopathy (DCM), which means one or more of the heart’s chambers are enlarged. Hedgehogs with DCM can experience difficulty breathing, lethargy, weight loss, and potentially a heart murmur, but it can also lead to sudden death if not treated when these signs arise. Therapy involves medication to manage chronic heart failure, but unfortunately the damage to the heart is irreversible. Respiratory Disease Hedgehogs are sensitive to respiratory disease caused by Bordetella, Pasteurella, and Corynebacterium infections. Watch out for sneezing, nasal discharge, or difficulty breathing. Diagnosis involves radiographs and a culture of their discharge and is treated with antibiotics. . In severe cases, oxygen and opening of the airways may be needed to avoid a serious lack of oxygen. Neurological Disease Wobbly hedgehog syndrome is a neurologic condition characterized by progressive loss of control of their limbs and weight loss that ultimately leads to paralysis. It can potentially be fatal. The cause of wobbly hedgehog is unknown, however, genetics is believed to play a role. Treatment involves supportive care and hand feeding. Unfortunately, there is no cure for this condition. Musculoskeletal Injuries Musculoskeletal injuries involve those that affect the hedgehog’s ability to move and use their muscles. Some common injuries include strangling of their little toes and legs due to frayed cloth in bedding (chewed by hedgehogs, of course) and overgrown toenails that get caught in the cage or grow into their footpad. Avoid injuries like these with consistent grooming and monitoring of their environment. Zoonotic Disease Should you be concerned about your own safety if your hedgehog gets sick? Some of the diseases we discussed, like Salmonella and dermatophytosis, can spread from hedgehogs to humans. Also, foot and mouth disease, which is highly contagious in humans, has been documented in wild-caught hedgehogs but not in any that are captive bred. Diseases like this are a great reminder of why it is so important to:
Credit: VIN Classroom Pets: Things to Consider
J. Scott Weese, DVM, DACVIM Having pets in school classrooms is a somewhat controversial subject. For every good point that's raised (e.g., promoting empathy, entertainment, learning about animals and their care) there are bad points (e.g., poor environment for the pet, rough handling, disorganized or absent medical care, disease transmission, fear, allergies, distraction). Some organizations have developed detailed guidelines for using animals in classrooms, but animals are often in classrooms with little consideration of the issues. PetSmart and the Pet Care Trust have a "Pets in the Classroom" program where kindergarten to grade six teachers can get support for having a pet in the classroom. Their release outlines a few of their perceived benefits, and some of the complexities of having pets in classrooms. Their points are in italics, with some comments from me.Little is known about what happens with these pets. We tried to do a survey of teachers from some school boards a few years ago and only ended up getting about two responses out of hundreds of eligible teacher participants (the overall lack of support from board administration didn't really help get the survey out and get teachers interested either, but that's another story). So, we really don't have a good idea of the types of animal contact that occur in classrooms or the problems that result, but we know from various case reports that complications like infections can and do occur. Hamsters make fun classroom pets because they are active and teach children the importance of schedules and responsibilities. Yes and no. They can be entertaining, but they can also be distracting. You have to differentiate something that's a novelty from something that is being used as part of the educational curriculum. Hamsters can be injured with rough handling by young children and close supervision is required. They may also bite when handled, especially when handled by young kids who don't know what they are doing. Plans to take care of the hamster over holidays and the summer are needed, and are often not considered in advance. The disease risks of hamsters are relatively low, but not non-existent. Having nocturnal animals in a busy daytime setting is also questionable ethically. Guinea Pigs are easily handled and encourage children to follow a regimented routine. They are similar to hamsters in their benefits and risk, but their larger size makes them more robust and less prone to handling injury. They are probably one of the better mammals to have in a classroom, but still require good organization, planning and practices. Fish are a great way to illustrate basic chemistry and biology principles while students follow regularly scheduled water changes. Fish can be great classroom animals. There are ways to incorporate them into the curriculum, from behaviour to animal care to feeding to water quality and environmental concerns. They need some care, with regular feeding and proper water maintenance, but with basic supervision and planning, the risks to the animals and people are minimal and they can be of benefit educationally. Bearded Dragons depend on their environment for heating and cooling and are a great way to teach about geography and the environment. Bearded dragons are great little reptiles with a lot of personality. However, they have specific requirements for care and feeding, something that cannot be easily fulfilled in a lot of classrooms. Also, being reptiles, they are high risk for Salmonella shedding. In a low risk household, it's not a big deal with basic hygiene practices. However, in a classroom with lots of kids, perhaps limited enforcement of hygiene, and kids eating in the area where the reptile is, the risks get higher. General guidelines are that children less than five years of age and people with compromised immune systems should not have contact with reptiles. This means they should not be in kindergarten classrooms or rooms where such students may spend time. More complicated is the issue of immunocompromised individuals. I'm not convinced that teachers always know when one of their students is immunocompromised, and what happens if there's an established pet and a student becomes immunocompromised? Bottom line: Reptiles shouldn't be in classrooms. Leopard Geckos are docile in nature and teach children about different nocturnal behaviors. These are interesting little critters, but not good classroom pets, like other reptiles, for the reasons outlined above. Nocturnal pets may not be great for classrooms either since the daytime activity and disruption may be harmful to them in the long term. Certain pets can be good additions to certain classrooms, with some logical planning and common sense, but poor planning and bad animal choices can be harmful to students and animals. School boards should be proactive and develop or adopt sound protocols for classroom pets. Reprinted from Worms and Germs Blog with permission of Dr. Weese Credit: VIN Practical dental Care Tips for Dogs and Cats
Jan Bellows, DVM, Board Certified Veterinary Dentist™, Dipl. ABVP (canine and feline) Date Published: 02/15/2024 Introduction There are simple, down-to-earth steps to ensure your pet's dental health is within reach. Neglecting your pet's oral hygiene can lead to pain and health problems. Here are some easy-to-follow tips on how to care for your pet's teeth without overwhelming yourself or your furry companion. Dental-Friendly Treats and Toys Start by incorporating dental-safe and effective treats, chews, and toys into your pet's daily routine. These can be a fun and effortless way to promote dental health. Look for treats and toys designed to clean teeth and massage gums while your pet chews on them. When choosing treats and toys, ensure they are appropriate for your pet's size and chewing habits. These can be a tasty, practical solution that helps reduce plaque and tartar buildup. The Veterinary Oral Health Counsel was created over 25 years ago and accepts products that decrease the accumulation of plaque or tartar. VOHC.org hosts a constantly updated list of over 70 dog and 20 cat products. Deer antlers, bones of any type, dried Yak milk, and nylon toys must be avoided because they can break teeth, exposing the tooth’s nerves. Dental Gel or Spray If your pet isn't a fan of toothbrushes or you find brushing challenging, consider using dental gels or sprays. These products are easy to apply and can help maintain oral hygiene. They contain enzymes or antimicrobial agents that work to reduce plaque and tartar. Look for the Veterinary Oral Health Seal of Acceptance on the product container. The products that have achieved acceptance status are considered safe and effective in decreasing the accumulation of plaque and/or tartar. Follow the instructions on the product label to apply the gel or spray to your pet's teeth and gums. It's a hassle-free alternative that can significantly impact your pet's dental health. Dental Wipes For some pets, using dental wipes can be a practical option. These pre-moistened wipes are designed to be gentle on your pet's gums while effectively cleaning teeth. Dental wipes are especially useful for pets that resist brushing or have a small mouth. To use dental wipes, gently wrap the wipe around your finger and rub it along the outer surfaces of your pet's teeth. Make sure to choose safe wipes for pets and free from harmful ingredients. There are simple, down-to-earth steps to ensure your pet's dental health is within reach. Neglecting your pet's oral hygiene can lead to pain and health problems. Here are some easy-to-follow tips on how to care for your pet's teeth without overwhelming yourself or your furry companion. Dental Water Additives Another practical tool for maintaining your pet's dental health is a dental water additive. These liquid solutions that you add to your pet's drinking water work to control plaque and tartar. While they are not a substitute for brushing and professional cleanings, they can be a convenient addition to your pet's daily routine. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the correct dosage and ensure your pet can access the treated water throughout the day. Also, look for the VOHC seal of acceptance on the product you choose to ensure safety and efficacy. Regular Check-ups Twice yearly veterinary dental check-ups are crucial for your pet's dental health to examine your pet's teeth and gums. As needed, pofessional dental cleanings under anesthesia performed by a veterinarian are the most effective way to remove stubborn tartar and address underlying dental issues. During these check-ups, your veterinarian can identify dental problems early on, such as infections or gum disease. Early detection can prevent these issues from escalating into more severe health problems. Many veterinarians employ a thiol detection strip (OraStripdx®) in the exam room to help identify the presence of periodontal disease. The positive result confirms the periodontal disease and the need for immediate dental care. At Home Checks Be vigilant for any signs of dental problems in your pet. Keep an eye out for the following warning signs:
Conclusion Practical dental care for your pet doesn't have to be complicated or time-consuming. Incorporating dental treats, toys, gels, sprays, wipes, and water additives into your pet's routine can positively impact their oral health. Remember to schedule regular check-ups with your veterinarian and be attentive to any warning signs of dental problems. Your pet's dental well-being is an essential aspect of their overall health. Credit: VIN Inappropriate Elimination (House-Soiling) in Cats
Wendy Brooks, DVM, DABVP Despite the cat’s reputation for fastidious cleanliness, house-soiling is the number one behavior problem of our feline friends. Many cats are turned outside, given away, or even put to sleep for this behavior problem, and it behooves the veterinary profession to address it. Urinating in odd places can mean a medical problem, a territorial marking problem, or some sort of social or environmental problem and sometimes the differences are not clear cut. Several factors may be in play and some conditions involve medical symptoms resulting from psychological stress. In other words, a combination of medical and behavior issues may be at work. Should the Approach be Medical? Illustration by Wendy Brooks, DVMThere are several medical conditions that can lead a cat to inappropriate urination and these should be ruled out so as not to get on the wrong track. The cat will need to be examined and get some testing. Conditions to rule out in part depend on the cat's age because young adults tend to get different diseases than do senior cats but, briefly, here are some conditions that should be checked out.
As mentioned, your veterinarian should evaluate your cat medically before you conclude that the problem is behavioral and you embark on a long-term behavioral approach. Urine Marking / Territorial Anxiety Cats use urination and defecation as a means of communication with other cats. By leaving their mark, they are telling other cats “I was here on this date at this time.” Other cats may then know this land has been claimed (or has not been recently claimed) and may act accordingly. Cats also mark by rubbing their faces on objects and by scratching vertically on surfaces. Psychological stress, such as other cats, moving to a new home, prolonged or sudden absence of the owner (who is usually viewed as a parent by the cat), noisy construction outside, visiting humans or other animals, or even new furniture may create a need for a cat to reassert a territorial claim. Signs that this kind of stress is causing the problem might include some or all of the following:
If any of these scenarios seem to fit, anti-anxiety medications may be tremendously helpful if the source of stress cannot be identified or cannot be altered. Medications commonly used as anti-anxiety treatments for inappropriate urination include the following. Clomipramine This medication has been helpful treating obsessive-compulsive disease and depression in humans and has been approved for canine separation anxiety. It has come to be the first choice of many behaviorists for urine-marking cats. In one study 80% of cats showed at least a 75% reduction in episodes of inappropriate urination within 4 weeks. Fluoxetine This medication is more commonly known as Prozac®. It has been used for feline urine marking and has been found of comparable efficacy to clomipramine. At least 8 weeks of treatment was required to achieve results in over 90% of cats and as long as they took the medication, they did not mark. If the medication is discontinued, marking may resume but is just as likely to respond a second time if the initial treatment was successful. Buspar This medication acts by blocking the effect of serotonin, a brain chemical. Studies have found this medication to be approximately 75% effective in reducing inappropriate urination in about half the cats that used it. It is typically given orally twice a day for a 2-week period. If it seems to work, the course is continued for a total of 8 weeks. After this period, it may be discontinued. Approximately half the cats in whom it is used do not resume inappropriate urination. The other half re-develop the problem and must continue on Buspar. A Word on Female Hormone Treatments These treatments have not shown as wide success as the newer medications listed above plus they have been fraught with serious side effect potential (mammary cancer and/or induction of diabetes mellitus). I recommend that these hormones be used only as an alternative to euthanasia. Other Products for Anxiety Several other products that help with anxiety are noteworthy, especially in situations where a cat is not amenable to taking medication or there is a medical condition that rules out medication. Dietary Supplements Alpha-casozepine is a natural protein contained in milk and is responsible for the calming features of drinking warm milk. It is available in pill form and has been formulated into calming diets. It is not particularly sedating but has anti-anxiety properties helpful in creating a more "zen" brain chemistry. L-theonine is derived from green tea leaves and is available in tablet form for dogs and cats, and can also be used for anxiety management. Supplements such as these are compatible with the other therapies listed above so they may be used in combination with pheromones or with medications. Pheromone Sprays and Diffusers Feliway® spray is for the area being marked rather than a medication given to the cat. The spray has feline pheromones of the type that cats deposit when facial marking (i.e., rubbing their face/cheeks on things to scent mark). These pheromones provide a message in the cat's own language proclaiming that the territory is secure and there is nothing to worry about. This confers a general calming effect and reduces the cat's interest in marking. Feliway is available as a spray to apply to marking surfaces or as a plug-in deffuser that spreads pheromones through the room. Defusers last approximately one month. When pheromone therapy was new, a study was conducted in 57 households with urine spraying cats. These cats marked on either vertical surfaces only or a combination of vertical and horizontal surfaces. Feliway spray was used twice a day on the urine marked areas for a one-month period. In one-third of households, urine marking stopped completely. In 57% of the households, urine marking was reduced and in 9.3% of households marking was unchanged. (Hunthausen, W., Evaluating a feline facial pheromone analogue to control urine spraying, Veterinary Medicine, Feb 2000, p 151 - 155) Neutering is the first step in addressing this problem. Hormonal motivations to mark territory are potent and must be removed from the picture. Litter Box Aversion/Environmental Factors Another reason why cats urinate or defecate outside the box is simply that the box is not acceptable to them. The box may be dirty, may not be adequately private, may smell funny or be uncomfortable. The following are clues that an inappropriate urination problem reflects litter box aversion:
The box should not be in a high traffic area. In a single cat home, the cat may have experienced something unpleasant in association with the current litter box (molestation by a child or dog, loud noise etc.) and needs a new bathroom area. It is important not to keep the cat’s food in a location near the box as the cat will not want to use the feeding area as a toilet. Obviously, any litter boxes should be scooped daily or even twice daily and kept as clean as possible. Clumping litter should be changed at least monthly and non-clumping litter should be changed twice weekly. The box should be washed with soapy water or water alone with no strong-smelling disinfectants that might be objectionable to the cat. Cat Attract is an herbal product designed to return the cat to the box. If the problem is difficulty in keeping the box clean, a self-cleaning box may be helpful. On the other hand, some cats object to the moving parts so use your judgement. Another type of litter can be provided to see if the cat prefers a different brand or type. Signs that the cat does not like the litter include: sitting on the plastic lip of the litter box to eliminate, failing to dig a hole in the litter, and/or shaking the litter off the paws after exiting the box. If nothing seems to work, the cat should be confined in a small area, such as a large plastic carrier, with a litter box. The cat is gradually allowed more area after proving that they will use the box. First, the carrier is the housing area, then a small room such as a bathroom or playpen is allowed, next a large room is added, etc. until the cat again has their usual access. Alternatively, the cat may be boarded in an animal hospital as housing in a small cage commonly brings the cat back to the litter box, plus the cat can be observed for other concerns that might be contributing to the elimination problem. Odor eliminators should be used in marked areas to discourage the cat’s tendency to return there. If these tips are not effective in restoring the cat’s proper toilet behaviors, a behavior specialist should be called in. Contact your veterinarian for the best consultant in your area. Many people waste time and effort on the wrong approach until they are at their wit's end and are considering euthanasia. If your cat occasionally eliminates inappropriately, please inform your vet erinarian promptly. Credit: VIN |
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