Unlike dogs and people, which are omnivores and gain nutrition from both plants and meat, cats are obligate carnivores. This means that they get most of their nutrients from animal products. One scientific study showed that when cats in the wild live on prey (such as mice, that they hunt and kill), their diet is primarily protein (55%), some fat (45%), and only a very small percentage of carbohydrates (1-2%).
These are specific numbers from just one study, and that study didn’t follow all those cats around and look at the long-term health impacts of diet or compare a wild, scavenging cat’s environment to that of an inactive indoor cat. However, this and similar studies show that a cat’s diet should probably consist of high amounts of protein, moderate amounts of fat, and low amounts of carbohydrates. One of the likely reasons behind these nutritional percentages is that a cat’s diet is based on the methods by which their body breaks down and metabolizes foods. Are Carbohydrates Bad for Cats? Depending on a cat’s life stage, the type of carbohydrate, and how it is manufactured, cats can digest an appropriate amount of carbohydrates efficiently. Small amounts of carbohydrates are necessary for their diets (e.g., fiber aids digestion and colonic health). All Proteins Are Not Equal Fish-based diets can sometimes have an imbalance of phosphorus and magnesium, which are important nutrients for cats. Feeding a diet made almost entirely of canned tuna can cause vitamin E deficiency. Your cat’s diet needs to consist of more than just choice cuts of meat; organ meats and fat are also important. The key is balance and ensuring nutritional needs are met. Additional Nutritional Needs of a Cat In addition to your cat’s protein requirements, they are deficient and/or can’t make certain nutrients needed for survival. Instead, they must get these nutrients from the foods they eat. Important dietary nutrients include amino acids, which are molecules that form proteins, as well as vitamins such as vitamin B (niacin) and vitamin D. Many of these important nutrients are primarily obtained from animal products (e.g., liver, protein, fat), which further highlights the importance of a diet high in animal protein. When researching commercial cat foods, make sure these nutrients are part of the ingredients. If you are unsure if your cat’s current diet hasthese nutrients, ask your veterinarian. Water The domestic house cat is believed to have descended from wild desert cats. They can survive on less water than some other animals, such as dogs. This is great for survival but can be a problem in the long term because they have less of a drive to seek water when their bodies need it. This lack of water can lead to a variety of issues over time. This information leads many researchers to recommend canned food because of its higher water content (70%-80% water) over dry food (10%-12% water). Other ways to make sure your cat gets enough water include offering more options for drinking, such as multiple water bowls throughout the house, a kitty water fountain, or occasionally letting a faucet drip to tempt them to drink. Canned Food vs Dry Kibble Evidence suggests that canned commercial diets (wet food) high in protein and low in carbohydrates may be the best diet for many cats; however, more research is needed. Some veterinarians have also noticed that common issues in feline medicine, such as urinary tract disease and chronic gastrointestinal (GI) issues, are seen much more often in cats that are fed dry diets alone. Hopefully, more veterinary studies in this area will be conducted to shed further light on these findings. Another benefit of canned food over dry is that the water content helps keep the sensation of feeling full, so your cat won’t consume too many calories. Many veterinarians will switch an overweight cat that has been eating dry food to a canned food diet as the first step toward weight loss, but the diet should also be appropriately fortified to make sure essential nutrients are in the right concentrations. It is important to note that canned diets tend to be more expensive than dry kibble diets, and there is often more food waste. Canned diets may not be for every family. Raw Diets Raw diets aren’t ideal for any pet, even for the carnivorous cat. It is difficult to properly make a raw diet that includesnecessary nutrients, vitamins, amino acids, proteins, fats, and carbohydrates and is correctly balanced. Raw meat can also contain bacteria and parasites that can make not only your cat sick but you as well. Outdoor and feral cats that eat only prey animals may have a slightly decreased risk of this issue because the kill is fresh, but they can still catch diseases such as toxoplasmosis from eating raw prey. When to Feed Many feline species found in the wild tend to be grazers, eating multiple small meals throughout the day and night. This tendency is thought to be associated with the types of prey they hunt. Domestic cats are the same, even if they eat commercial cat food. Leaving an appropriate amount of dry food out all day or using a timed feeder so that cats can eat as they need to works pretty well for most cats as long as they do not overeat. If using canned food, or if your cat is on a calorie-restricted diet, you can offer smaller, more frequent meals throughout the day to help keep them on their body’s natural schedule. Making a Change to Feeding Schedules Whether you are transitioning from freely fed kibble to periodically feeding canned food throughout the day, trying to get your cat on a schedule to better manage its calorie intake, trying to change from feeding one to two times a day to allowing more grazing, or just trying to readjust your sleeping schedule, the key is gradual change. Cats are absolutely creatures of habit. Just about every cat owner out there will tell you that when Daylight Savings Time hits, their cats’ tummies do not “spring forward” with the new time. What do you do? Tips for Starting a New Feeding Schedule: • For slight changes in feeding times (like transitioning to Daylight Savings Time or a new starting time at work), adjust the new feeding time by 15-minute increments over one to two weeks. • To change to free feeding, decrease your cat's regular meals by one-fourth the amount and then offer the extra in the form of a snack in the morning and a snack in the afternoon. Gradually transition to four equal small meals a day, then try six small meals a day. This can be difficult (or may not be appropriate) for cats that are not naturally grazers and have a tendency to overeat. • To change from free feeding to set meals, start by reversing the above transition to regular meals. Offer six portions spaced out throughout the day instead of free-feeding, then gradually decrease the number of meals to two meals a day, increasing the portions as you go along to make sure your cat is getting the appropriate amount of daily calories. • To change to regularly scheduled wet food meals from freely fed dry kibble, start by transitioning to a regular schedule using their normal dry food diet. Once they are comfortable with their new feeding schedule, gradually mix in wet food with these regular meals (making sure to decrease the amount of dry food in proportion to the amount of wet food to avoid overfeeding your cat). With time, decrease the amount of kibble compared to wet food until you have them completely transitioned. • Be patient and transition as slowly as you can. If your cat quits eating or drives you crazy because their schedule has changed, go back a few steps in the transition process and start again. Some cats are very stubborn and are not up for big changes. If this is the case with your cat, a compromise of snacks throughout the day or a mix of dry and wet food may be the best you can do. • If in doubt, ask your veterinarian for more recommendations. You definitely won’t be the first cat owner to have a cat who only wants to eat one thing and only wants to eat it on their chosen schedule. Cats are very intelligent, independent animals, which is part of what makes them so great, but that also means it is pretty common for them to want things done their own way. How Much to Feed How much to feed depends on what you are feeding. Many commercial cat foods have a list describing the recommended amount per weight on the can or bag. However, these recommendations are only general guidelines from the manufacturer. Feed the amount your cat needs for a healthy weight (which should be determined by your veterinarian), not what the cat currently weighs. For example, if your cat weighs 17 pounds but should weigh 12 pounds, slowly adjust the amount of food appropriate for a 12-pound cat. If your cat needs to lose weight, discuss your concerns with your veterinarian before starting a diet/calorie restriction plan since a specific diet is usually needed to do this safely. Being overweight is a significant health problem and should be prevented whenever possible or reversed if needed. It is also important to measure food correctly. Use a gram scale or measure food by volume with measuring cups rather than estimating the amount. Feeding just 10 extra pieces of dry kibble a day can contribute to 10% weight gain in a year, equivalent to an entire pound of body weight in most cats! Keep in mind that feeding a suitable amount of food will not stop your cat’s urge to hunt. In the wild, hunting often requires many attempts before success, so the instinct to hunt tends to be separate from a feeling of fullness. Cats get enrichment from hunting (i.e., enhanced quality of life from doing and acting on important cat behaviors), even if they don’t eat what they catch. You can help provide your cat with this type of enrichment by letting them play with mice or feathered toys to help stimulate their hunting instincts without affecting their waistlines. Determining Quality Always discuss your cat’s nutrition concerns with your veterinarian. Veterinarians are trained in nutrition and understand the delicate balance of nutrients needed to keep your cat healthy. Your veterinarian can make food recommendations based on your pet’s personal physical examination and health status. Help ensure your cat is eating an appropriate commercial diet for their life stage by making sure the food meets the nutritional standards of the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO), either by formulation or by using feeding tests. AAFCO publishes guidelines yearly to help keep the nutritional appropriateness of pet foods; in many cases, these recommendations are then adopted at the state level to become law. The monitoring and enforcement of pet food law is under the jurisdiction of state and federal officials, but the manufacturers bear a lot of responsibility to ensure nutritional adequacy. Unfortunately, pet foods have no certification or approval process; however, a large, reputable manufacturer following AAFCO guidelines and many other production standards helps ensure quality and safety. Avoiding a Picky Eater Cats tend to develop a liking for certain textures, flavors, smells, and temperatures of food. Preferences are fine, but extreme pickiness can make changing diets or getting a sick cat to eat difficult. Consider offering your cat a variety of food options in early life to help them avoid becoming stuck on certain foods. Tips for helping a picky eater transition to new foods include: • Maintaining a safe space for your cat’s meals (e.g., low noise, no concern with other pets trying to eat the food or bother your cat while eating). • Make sure a picky appetite is not poor because of illness (e.g., nausea from stomach upset, pain from arthritis). • Consider warming wet food to enhance smell and taste, but make sure it’s not too hot. • Mixing the food your cat is used to with the new food and transition slowly over several days or weeks. • Cats often refuse new diets when stressed but will eat them under normal conditions, so make sure the atmosphere is stress-free during the transition. Medical Management Through Food Veterinary therapeutic diets have been formulated to address medical problems in cats. Medical disorders that can be helped with specific diets include kidney disease, dental disease, hyperthyroidism, diabetes mellitus, urinary tract disorders, GI diseases, and pancreatitis. If your cat is experiencing a medical illness, especially one that is chronic or ongoing, talk to your veterinarian about whether a veterinary therapeutic diet might be helpful. Using Food Behaviors to Enhance Daily Life In addition to meeting nutritional and caloric needs, food can provide enrichment for cats, especially indoor cats, by stimulating their predatory impulses. This helps them live a happier, less stressful, and more cat-like life. Examples of enrichment through food are hiding meals in food puzzles and letting cats play with food-containing toys in a way that stimulates a cat’s natural predatory instinct of hunting for food. Remember that if a cat is on a restricted diet, you can use toys that stimulate the cat’s predator response, such as small, mouse-sized toys that squeak or make high-pitched noises. Toys that move unpredictably are especially fun for cats. This type of feeding or playing can help increase your cat’s activity level, decrease their stress, and may help keep them more physically fit. Common Myths About Food While many misconceptions exist about cats and food, a few common ones are listed below. You already know the truth about the most important one: cats are not omnivores but, in fact, are carnivores.
Cats are not like people or dogs. They are carnivores and are adapted to eat a diet with specific nutrients. Your cat’s overall health can be significantly improved if obesity is avoided, and their lives are made more interesting with enrichment activities involving food. Canned foods can help keep good hydration and satiety (i.e., a feeling of fullness after eating). Talk to your veterinarian about which diet is best for your pet and how much to feed. Credit: VIN Revised: June 15, 2024 Published: November 01, 2018
0 Comments
Dehydration is excessive loss of water from the body (typically through vomiting and/or diarrhea) or inappropriate intake of water into the body (decreased thirst). The most common mistake with a vomiting pet is to encourage food and water intake while the pet is still vomiting. This actually makes matters worse by not allowing the stomach and intestinal tract time to rest and can cause additional vomiting and water loss. Removing access to food and water for a short period of time may seem like it would make dehydration worse, but it can help your pet avoid further dehydration. Dehydration makes your pet feel lethargic, and can potentially cause severe problems with the kidneys and other internal organs if untreated.What to Do
Some cases of dehydration may require medical treatment potentially including IV fluids.What NOT to Do
Mouth: Are the tongue and gums moist or dry? If they are dry, there is a chance your pet may be dehydrated. Is the saliva thick or ropey? Normally, saliva is quite watery and hardly noticeable. Eyes: Are they normal, or do they sink into the sockets? Sunken or dry eyes may indicate dehydration, and warrant veterinary attention. Skin: Do the skin turgor test outlined in the Physical Exam Checklist. If the skin is slow to return to position, the pet may be moderately to severely dehydrated. If the skin does not return fully to its position, your pet may be severely dehydrated and may be in critical condition. Seek veterinary attention immediately. The skin turgor test is not always accurate and several factors such as age, weight loss, and condition of the skin can give misleading results. A veterinary professional can help you determine how dehydrated your pet is, what the cause may be, and the best course of treatment. Credit: VIN Roger Gfeller, DVM, DACVECC; Michael Thomas, DVM; Isaac Mayo; The VIN Emergency Medicine Consultants Revised: June 19, 2023 Published: December 31, 1994 Summer is full of celebrations involving fireworks. Canada has Canada Day on July 1, the USA has Independence Day on July 4, and France has Bastille Day on July 14. Dogs and cats react to fireworks as individuals. Some aren’t upset by the explosions, and others get hurt by panicking and jumping through closed windows or bolting through doors to get away from the terrifying noise and lights.
American pet advocacy groups point out that the number of escapees is so high that Independence Day is the busiest day of the year in shelters -- and that many pets get lost, injured, or killed. You should know which clinics or emergency hospitals will be open during fireworks season, in case you need one, as this will help you avoid time delays and stress. Your pets will do better if they’re not left home alone during fireworks events. That's not always feasible, so think ahead before leaving them alone. Signs of anxiety can include pacing, trembling, panting, drooling, attention-seeking (vocalizing, pawing, nuzzling, and climbing on people), hiding, and bolting. Escape attempts tend to involve hiding behind furniture, and staying in a basement or bathroom. Because the source of the noise is confusing, inside dogs may want to escape to the outside, and outside dogs may be frantic to get inside. Nervous pets tend to drink more water, so keep more available than usual. (And remember, these summer events usually mean hotter weather, and the likelihood of power problems, so extra water is already a good idea.) Bring outside pets inside, so they can't bolt. Keep your cats securely inside, and if your dog needs a potty break during the fireworks, take him outside on a leash, even in a fenced yard. Make sure all your pets are wearing an ID tag or a collar that contains your phone number. Tags and collars can be lost, so a microchip is even more useful in helping you find your lost pet. Drug-Free Remedies What can you do to keep your frightened pet safe and calm? For many frightened pets, just staying in a crate (as long as they are used to one) or in a “safe” room with a closed door is all that's needed. Synthetic pheromone sprays such as Feliway for cats and Adaptil (formerly called D.A.P.) for dogs are available at pet stores. These sprays imitate the properties of the natural pheromones of the lactating female that gives kittens or puppies a sense of well-being. An herbal relaxant called Composure comes in chews or liquid for dogs; the feline version is in chews. Some pets respond to pressure wraps, such as Thundershirts. The pressure on the body may have a calming effect. Ear muffs to muffle sound are also available. Calming caps cover a dog's eyes to reduce visual stimulation. If you can plan ahead for these summer events, veterinary behaviorists often recommend behavior modification, classical counter-conditioning, and teaching a desirable coping response. In behavior modification, controlling the intensity of the fireworks is necessary and often the most challenging part. While it often isn’t possible to expose a fearful dog to only “little fireworks,” controlling other factors can help. Distance from the fireworks can be less intimidating, as would be keeping the dog indoors. Music may disguise the bursts of noise; consider loud music with a regular beat. Classical counter-conditioning can create a positive association with fireworks if the anxiety isn’t extreme. Give high-value food rewards (canned food or peanut butter), offer your pet his favorite toys or food puzzle toys, or have your pet practice his tricks with you. The goal is for him to learn that fireworks result in highly pleasant rewards. You can teach a desirable coping response. The appropriate response for a dog facing something frightening is to retreat to a safe place until the frightening thing ends. Providing a safe retreat, such as a crate or a closet, will give security and confidence, although selecting the location is up to the pet. Blankets to muffle the sound and a pheromone diffuser will provide natural motivation for the dog to seek this location. Being able to cope when the world becomes overwhelming is a life skill essential for both people and dogs! Hiding is not a sign of a problem if the pet quickly returns to normal behavior when the fireworks are over. Medication It's easier to prevent a fearful reaction than it is to reverse one. If your pet is nervous around loud, unexpected noises, a short-term sedative before the fireworks start may be just the ticket. Talk to your veterinarian ahead of time, so you can have something on hand to give your pet before the noise begins. Several medications are used for fireworks or thunderstorm phobias in dogs; however, do not use any of your own prescriptions because the dosage may be potentially harmful. Some severely anxious pets may benefit from drugs (clomipramine, fluoxetine, or trazodone) that increase the level of serotonin. Trazodone may start working within a few hours, but its effect varies, so you should test it with your dog before the fireworks season starts. The other drugs can take several weeks if not more, to build up to an effective level, so they are not a spur-of-the-moment fix. You have many choices of how to help your pet cope with fireworks stress. Talk to your veterinarian about what is best for your pet. Hopefully, everyone in the family will then be able enjoy the holiday! Credit: VIN Becky Lundgren, DVM Revised: June 27, 2024 Published: June 23, 2010 Cats retain many behaviors of their wild ancestors. As predators, they have strength, agility, speed, and keen senses to catch prey effectively. Owners can help their feline friends express these natural skills during mealtimes. Food enrichment provides physical and behavioral well-being for the cat and enjoyment for the family.
Feed part of the daily meal or special treats when using the following tools. Many diets, including prescription, can be used for enrichment with either wet or dry foods.
Dry food can be placed in puzzles since cats bat, push, and move about to get the food to fall out
Hide and seek because cats use the sense of smell to find food
Interactive games build a better bond
Supervise pet interactions when using these in a multi-pet household. Observe your cat during food enrichment to be sure they don’t get stuck, injured, or become frustrated. Small meals in feeders prevent gulping and may lessen vomiting. Credit: VIN Sherrie Yuschak, RVT, VTS (Behavior), KPA-CTP Revised: May 24, 2024 Feather destructive behavior (also called feather picking) happens when birds damage their feathers with their beak. This is not a disease by itself, but a symptom of an underlying problem. Feather picking can cause baldness, and in severe cases it can damage underlying tissues. It is widespread among captive parrots, especially grey parrots and cockatoos, but any pet bird can be affected.
Left unchecked, feather picking has serious consequences. Besides causing baldness or a lack of nice feathers, feather picking affects a bird’s ability to keep itself warm, can cause bleeding, infections, and permanent damage to the feather follicle, thus preventing normal regrowth. This can progress to an obsessive-compulsive disorder, making treatment much more difficult. Causes Feather picking is a consequence of captivity. This behavior is much less common in wild birds. The conditions of captivity provide less stimulation than a bird has in the wild, where they spend their time avoiding predators, exploring their environment, socializing, etc. A bird may feather pick in response to decreased levels of mental and social stimulation. Causes are divided into medical and non-medical. Several can contribute to feather picking at the same time. While not listed below, any disease that causes pain, discomfort, irritation or itch can be a medical cause. Non-medical causes
Recognizing Feather Picking in your Bird Any feather your bird can reach is fair game, although the chest, undersurface of the wing and inner thigh are most commonly affected. Feathers on the head and neck are unaffected because their beak cannot reach these areas. To spot changes as soon as possible, be familiar with what your bird’s feathers and general appearance normally look like as well as what they should look like. Your bird’s feathers should be tidy and sleek. If you notice any broken feathers or bald spots, consult your veterinarian. Diagnosis Diagnosing the underlying cause(s) of feather picking can be a long process and requires excellent cooperation between you and your veterinarian. With non-medical causes so common, it is important to provide your veterinarian with a thorough history of your bird’s behavior and environment. This helps your veterinarian rule in or out possible causes. In addition, your veterinarian will perform a physical examination and an assessment of your bird. Once your veterinarian has a good list of possible causes, they may decide further specific tests are needed. These can include bloodwork, x-rays, skin biopsies, and more. These tests are tailored to your individual bird. Treatment Realistically, eliminating feather picking in each bird is not possible. Feather picking is a complex problem with different contributing factors. A reduction in the amount of feather picking can be considered a success. The basis for several treatment strategies is to provide your bird with healthy, more desirable alternatives to feather picking. Feather picking serves a purpose to your bird. It can help birds cope with boredom, stress, anxiety and other unpleasant feelings. Treatment plans are designed to address the underlying reason of why your bird is picking. How they do so should be tailored to your bird and your lifestyle. The most impressive treatment plans will fail if they cannot be carried out. Different Therapeutic Strategies
Temporary Fixes Temporary measures that reduce feather picking include Elizabethan collars, neck braces, fabric jackets or vests, and applying foul-tasting substances to the areas being picked. These tactics are not solutions. Your bird is still upset, agitated, or sick and will feather pick if given the chance. Prognosis Feather picking requires a fair amount of persistence and patience from both the owner and veterinarian. Despite an excellent treatment plan and teamwork, success may mean only a reduction of feather picking rather than eliminating it entirely. Catching it early improves the chance of success. Credit: VIN Stephanie Cruz-Rincon, Veterinary Student Class of 2023 Published July 21, 2020 Any insect or spider can cause problems if they bite or sting your pet. A bite or sting can cause swelling, redness, and itching. Some animals can have an allergic reaction to a sting or bite that may result in a range of symptoms: mild to severe hives, facial swelling, vomiting, difficulty breathing, or even collapse. Some spider bites can lead to extensive skin necrosis (skin death) which may need treatment or surgery. Contact a veterinarian right away if your pet is showing signs of an allergic reaction. Reactions can be severe and may require emergency treatment.
What to Do: European honey bee courtesy of Natalie Rowe If the stinger can be found, scrape it out with a credit card or other stiff material. Alternatively, use tweezers by grasping the stinger, which is located below the venom sac. Studies have shown that speed is of the essence in removing the stinger. If the only way is to pinch it and remove it, then do so. You'll do more good than harm and you'll get the stinger out faster. Don't worry about squeezing more venom into the area - this has been disproven. Apply cool compresses to the area 3-4 times daily for 3-4 days. To help neutralize some of the acidic venom, apply a paste mixture of baking soda and water to the sting area. Prevent your pet from licking at the area by using an Elizabethan collar (cone) to prevent further trauma to the area. In short-faced/brachycephalic breeds like pugs, boxers, etc., facial swelling can lead to damage to the eyes. Have your veterinarian examine your pet and prevent rubbing on carpet, furniture, etc. What NOT to Do: Mosquito Do not administer any medications without first contacting your veterinarian or a veterinary emergency hospital. The veterinarian may need to examine your pet before recommending medications. Credit: VIN Roger Gfeller, DVM, DACVECC; Michael Thomas, DVM; Isaac Mayo; The VIN Emergency Medicine Consultants Revised: August 01, 2023 Published: December 31, 1994 Christine Calder, DVM, DACVB
Published: January 22, 2021 Photo courtesy of Christine CalderMany people love to take their dog on errands and fun adventures in the car. Some even take their cats. Some dogs and cats become anxious in the car with others refusing to enter the car at all. What can we do? Anxiety in the car is a common behavior among both dogs and cats. There are many different reasons for this including movement of the car, car noises, or sights and sounds outside the window. Step 1: Rule Out Motion Sickness Many of the behaviors your dog displays when nauseous mimic anxiety, such as licking lips, drooling, and panting. If left untreated, motion sickness leads to anxiety about the car. Cerenia®, an FDA approved medication, is effective at preventing motion sickness in dogs. If the anxious behavior does not persist, then motion sickness was likely the cause. Step 2: Pheromones and Aromatherapy Adaptil®, a pheromone, is an odorless message specific to dogs that can help dogs feel calm and relaxed during times of stress. Feliway®, is the cat version. Pheromones are sprayed on the floorboards, in your pet’s carrier, and where your pet rides. Wait 10 minutes before letting your pet back in their carrier or car and never spray directly on your pet. Lavender, chamomile, and sandalwood scents are thought to reduce anxiety and have a positive effect on behavior and mood. A study was published showing dogs spent significantly more time resting and sitting and less time moving and vocalizing during car rides when lavender was introduced for car rides. Step 3: Window Shades and Thundercaps Blocking the view outside can be dangerous to the driver. Tools such as small window shades or a Thundercap are helpful in reducing both motion sickness and car ride anxiety. Photo courtesy of Christine CalderStep 4: Seatbelts and Crates If you use a carrier, teach your pet to enjoy the carrier. Covering the carrier or crate helps your pet feel safe and secure when traveling. Harnesses that attach to a seatbelt improve safety. Several seatbelt harness combinations have been crash test certified by the Center for Pet Safety. Step 5: Long-Term Treatment There are many approaches to decreasing your pet’s anxiety in the car. All techniques start with a calm and relaxed animal. Conditioning relaxation on a mat or the use of a Treat&Train® are helpful when modifying this behavior. Step 6: Medication Medications can be helpful when reducing anxiety in the car. Talk with your veterinarian about options for your pet. Credit: VIN Bob Judd, DVM, DABVP (Equine Medicine), DABVP (Canine and Feline Practice)
Courtesy of Texas Farm Bureau Radio Network Revised: December 20, 2023 Published: October 02, 2006 Back pain in horses has always been a difficult diagnosis because it is hard to get any objective data on the horse’s back. However, Dr. Cooper Williams said at the AAEP Convention that equine practitioners should be using ultrasound to further examine the muscles in the horse's back. Almost all equine practitioners have access to an ultrasound with sufficient power to image the equine back muscles and can diagnose specific conditions in this area. The multifidus muscle is the major muscle in the horse’s back. It is not a single muscle, but a group of overlapping muscles grouped into five distinct bands. Each muscle originates at the end of a spinal vertebrae and spans two to four vertebrae and it is likely that injuries to these muscles are underdiagnosed. Because these muscles are deep and adjacent to the vertebrae, examining them by palpation, X-rays and even bone scanning is not very effective. Many of these horses have atrophy of the back muscles and spasms and these muscles can be examined thoroughly with ultrasound. All of the muscles in the back should be examined with ultrasound. It requires measuring the size of the muscles and comparing results to the same muscles on the other side to know if there is a problem, so this procedure does require some time and experience. Changes noted on ultrasound may be the size and shape of the muscles, a decrease in shade of the image, which can indicate a tear in the muscle or injury, and an increase in muscle shade that can indicate inflammation where the muscles are attached to the bone. So, if you have a horse with a suspected back problem causing decreased performance, ask your veterinarian about an ultrasound exam. Credit: VIN Mark Rishniw, BVSc, MS, PhD, DACVIM (Internal Medicine and Cardiology) Published: February 20, 2024Canine heartworms, Dirofilaria immitis, are parasitic worms that pose a serious threat to dogs. These long, slender worms live in the pulmonary arteries (and, occasionally, within the heart) of dogs and can measure up to a foot in length. They can cause substantial damage to the lungs and heart. Adult heartworms cause inflammation of the blood vessels in the lungs, resulting in respiratory issues and pulmonary hypertension. In some cases, this leads to weight loss, weakness, right-sided congestive heart failure, reduced quality of life, and even death. The prevention of heartworms and early detection are crucial in managing heartworm disease. Mosquitoes and the Heartworm Lifecycle Mosquitos are vectors of heartworm disease. A vector is a carrier and transmitter of disease from an infected individual to a non-infected individual. Certain species of mosquito can ingest young heartworms, called microfilariae when they feed on an infected animal. Once inside the mosquito, the microfilariae develop into third-stage larvae (known as L3) over a few weeks, provided that the environmental conditions are conducive (temperatures above 58oF). The larvae pass through the puncture wound the mosquito makes when it bites another animal. The larvae grow under the skin of the newly infected animal over several weeks, progressing through additional larval stages. At a certain point, the larvae enter the bloodstream and float into the pulmonary arteries (the arteries carrying blood from the heart to the lungs). Here, they mature into adults. It takes about six to seven months for the larvae to reach adulthood. Adult heartworms mate, and then the females begin to release tiny larvae, the microfilariae, back into the bloodstream, continuing their lifecycle. Prevention is Key Preventing heartworms is much easier (especially for your dog) than having to treat an active heartworm infection. Studies show that exposure to heartworm depends on factors such as:
Heartworms exist in many parts of the world, but the prevalence greatly varies. In warmer climates with higher mosquito populations, such as tropical and subtropical areas, the risk of heartworm transmission is higher. These areas make excellent habitats for mosquitoes and the development of heartworm larvae, so dogs living in these regions are at a greater risk of heartworms. On the other hand, there are fewer heartworm infections in cooler or drier regions with smaller mosquito populations. The travel, relocation, and presence of infected animals can allow heartworms to start infecting animals where they are less common. Climate change (and temperature increase) is also expanding mosquito ranges, creating longer active seasons and better environmental conditions for larvae. Environmental Considerations More recent recommendations for preventing heartworm infections advise reducing mosquito bites. This can be done by avoiding places with heavy mosquito populations when possible to reduce the chances of being bitten and contracting heartworms (for example, some studies have shown that indoor dogs in high-risk areas tend to have fewer infections than outdoor dogs). Avoid visiting permanent and semi-permanent (seasonal) bodies of water like lakes, streams, and floodplain areas with your dog, especially when large mosquito hatches are taking place (usually in warmer, humid weather). Check around your home for areas with standing water and eliminate containers or reservoirs that may be prime real estate for mosquito larvae. There may always be an ideal climate for mosquitoes, and other preventative methods such as lawn alteration, porch nets, and other mosquito barriers may be helpful, depending on your location. Talk to your local health department if you have concerns about mosquitoes on your property and what you can do to help control them. Preventative Medications Heartworm preventatives are prescribed by your veterinarian and come in oral, topical, and injectable forms. As mentioned before, preventing heartworms is much easier than treating them, and the American Heartworm Society recommends FDA-approved heartworm preventatives year-round. In areas where mosquitoes are endemic (native or regularly present), your dog can be infected if just one preventative dose is missed. The risk varies depending on your location, and even people who live in places with cold winters should give heartworm preventatives year-round for the best possible prevention. Detecting Heartworm Infection Blood tests for heartworm infections are recommended yearly for all dogs over seven months. If you do not give preventatives regularly every month or if you switch preventatives, more frequent testing may be recommended. If your dog has tested positive for heartworms, your veterinarian will discuss the treatment options available. Talk to your veterinarian about heartworm preventative options and recommended testing frequency. Janet Stomberg, BS, MS, Veterinary Partner Content Coordinator, contributed to this article. Credit: VIN Revised: March 30, 2024
Published: April 05, 2009 Sophia Yin, DVM, CAAB, MS Animal Science (1966-2014); Revised by CattleDogPublishing Team Twas the week after Easter And all through the house A bunny was stirring All quiet like a mouse It tasted the carpet It marked the new couch It left little green presents Which made Dad a grouch Did you ask for a rabbit for Easter? Did you get one? Read on for a fun (and perhaps not so fun) look at rabbit ownership. Ask any rabbit fancier, and they will tell you what makes rabbits so great. These affectionate, high-spirited herbivores are full of mischief and games. Their amusing behavior, coupled with their quiet nature and convenient size, makes them wonderful house pets. But as some unsuspecting Easter bunny recipients may soon discover, these feisty little lagomorphs can be a handful to house. In fact, their upkeep can be such a challenge that a handful of owners will call it quits and surrender their Easter pet to an animal shelter. To help prevent such a grave mistake, here are some facts and tips that a potential rabbit owner should consider. Bunny-proof the House To start, the first challenge most bunny owners face is that of protecting the house. Bunnies love to chew—on your plants, on your books, and especially on your electrical cords. It’s in their nature. Their wild counterparts spend most of the day foraging, which requires hours of chewing on often relatively low-calorie foods to get the nutrition they need. They browse a few leaves on one plant and then hop over to the next and search through the vegetation to get to the parts they want. In contrast, the typical house rabbit tends to get a concentrated pellet meal, which takes way less time to chew. As a result, bunnies have all that extra time on their hands and a high desire to chew. An on-the-ball owner will provide chew toys and hay at all times to help fulfill this chewing desire. In addition to these precautions, you’ll need to bunny-proof the house. Make sure electrical cords are out of the way, and if you can’t elevate the cords put them in PVC piping. Once you think the house is safe, you can start letting Bunny out, supervised at first. That way, you can see how well you have bunny-proofed. You never quite know what they will take an inkling to do. Some youngsters even chew and swallow carpet, which can lead to intestinal blockage, a problem that requires surgery. It’s important that rabbits get enough exercise. Spending their entire day in a cage is not adequate any more than spending all your time in a room the size of a walk-in closet and with no T.V., radio, or internet! So, Bunny will need some playtime every day outside the cage. Bunny Poop and Potty Training Even before you give Bunny the run of the room or even the house, there are a few other issues to consider. Assuming you don’t like little green pellets decorating your floor, your bunny’s first lesson should be potty training. Limiting Bunny to the cage and adding a box filled with rabbit-safe litter plus samples of her No. Two often does the trick. Additionally, adding hay to the corner of the box can help entice them in. For the occasional bunny who likes to hang out in their own bathroom and poop in the cage, make the rest of the cage more comfortable so they'll hang out there instead. Try placing a synthetic sheepskin rug in it. Once you’re certain Bunny has the idea, you can let them out into a small play area. Be sure they still have easy access to the litter box, and add boxes as needed. By starting slowly, you’ll be able to increase the play area gradually and decrease the number of litter boxes. An Interesting Fact About Rabbit Poop By the way, since we’re talking about poop, you might want to know that rabbits regularly eat some of their poop. Rabbits are hindgut fermenters. That means their vegetable-digesting system occurs in the latter half of the gut. Rabbits don’t digest vegetable matter on their own. Food passes through the stomach and then is further digested, and the building blocks are absorbed from the intestines to the bloodstream. Animals can’t digest the coarse cell walls that make up vegetation. They have to rely on bacteria in their gut to ferment the products. Then, they digest the bacteria and all the material they’ve made. Because this bacterial digestion system occurs well down the road in the mid intestines (primarily a portion called the cecum), a lot of the digested material is wasted and leaves the body through the poop. To recover this important source of nutrition, rabbits tend to poop the cecal pellets at night and then eat these so-called night feces. Urine Marking and Aggression Next, there’s the problem of urine. It’s hard to believe, but these cuddly creatures are unmistakably territorial. They’ll mark their area, and some will bite and scratch both two- and four-legged trespassers. Getting Bunny spayed or neutered at five to six months old will eliminate most of the marking and can double or triple their life span by preventing fatal reproductive-tract cancers. Good socialization and rewarding appropriate behavior can fix the rest. Regular, short, gentle handling sessions where the rabbit is well supported can turn a ho-hum pet into a wonderful, sociable companion—one that can even learn to greet you on cue or perform simple tricks. This handling should start before three months of age since the sensitive period for developing social bonds and learning to recognize that being handled, people, and other pets is safe occurs in the early weeks of life. Different people, including visitors, should handle bunnies so they learn that visitors are safe to be with, too. They will learn even faster if you give them treats to nibble on while you’re handling them and when putting them in new situations. Then, they will associate the handling and new situations with good things. If they are hungry but won’t eat, that indicates the situation is scary. Medical Issues Besides these behavioral aspects, rabbits require additional considerations. Rabbits require lots of care, possibly more than a cat or a dog. They have dietary needs that are more specific than a dog’s, and husbandry is such a major issue that if you’re not paying attention, problems can arise before you even have any idea. Veterinarians commonly see problems of benign neglect. Owners usually aren’t purposely neglecting their rabbits, they just haven't learned how to properly care for them. Such problems include teeth so overgrown that Bunny can’t eat, urine burns on the tummy, and malnutrition. Additionally, because rabbits are prey animals, without thorough socialization, they stress easily and, like cats, hide their diseases for a long time. That means that when we finally realize they’re sick, they’re pretty far along. To prevent problems from sneaking up on your bunny, examine them daily for physical problems and bring them in yearly for veterinary checkups. By now, it’s clear that bunnies require unique care. And maybe an Easter bunny is not right for you. But for those owners who can meet their needs, bunnies can make unique companions. Credit: VIN |
The PAW Blog...
For the LOVE of Pets The goal of this blog is to help educate pet owners by sharing pet health facts and pet news articles...and ... sometimes put a smile on your face with a cute or funny pet story! Categories
All
Archives
July 2024
Search for any topic...
|