Transform your pooch from troublemaker to the best-behaved pet on the block with these simple steps.
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Flirting with the idea of owning both a dog and a cat — but worried you'll only be flirting with disaster? Canines and felines can live in harmony, as long as you follow these no-nonsense tips.
If you’re having doubts about adding a cat to your “dog house” or introducing a canine to your feline-friendly home, rest assured: Dogs and cats can live together in peace. The trick? Create a structured and healthy pet environment to smooth the transition. The conventional wisdom that a cat and dog can’t get along is a pet myth, says Isabelle Hamel, head trainer and behavior consultant at North Shore Animal League America, the world’s largest no-kill animal rescue and adoption organization located in Port Washington, N.Y. “Cats and dogs can live very happily together,” she says. In fact, millions of Americans live in a dog-and-cat household. According to a recent Gallup survey, of the 59 percent of Americans who own either a cat or dog, 16 percent of them own both a cat and a dog. 5 Must-Dos for Keeping the Peace Between Pets Here’s how to avoid an unpleasant dog vs. cat showdown: Keep kitty safe. Set up a safe haven for your cat that is inaccessible to your dog. “This area should contain the cat’s bed, food, and water on one side of the room and the litter box on the other,” says Hamel. Use a gate or chain on top of the door that keeps the dog out, but provides just enough room for the cat to slip in and out. Put your pup on a leash. “It’s important to be able to control the dog without chasing, yelling, or grabbing,” Hamel says. She suggests using a light tether attached to the dog’s collar while at home. This will provide you with instant access to the dog. Since the tether is lighter than a leash, the dog will feel as though he’s free, but you will still be able to control him. To keep the dog from chewing on the tether, soak it in bad-tasting mouthwash. As the animals become accustomed to each other, gradually cut this cord shorter until it is no longer needed, she says. Get them while they’re young. If possible, introduce a cat and dog while they are still young. “Youth is a formative time — most animals are curious, flexible, and resilient when they are young,” says Hamel. Bear breeds in mind. “It’s important to research what tasks an animal was originally bred for,” Hamel says. For instance, hounds, spaniels, and retrievers were bred to work with groups of people or other dogs, making them very social. Says Hamel, “Terriers were bred to work independently and usually prefer the company of people rather than other animals — Jack Russells are a good example of this.” Siberian huskies have a strong prey drive and do not do well with cats, nor do Alaskan malamutes since they are natural predators, according to Hamel. Let them work it out. Hamel says the biggest mistake pet owners make when introducing a cat and dog is interfering with the animals’ natural interaction. “If an animal growls or hisses, it is a clear correction toward the offending animal.” If you step in and try to stop the behavior, the cat and dog will hiss or growl more intensely, becoming more aggressive, she explains. So if you think you’re ready to share your home with another pet, Hamel has this advice: “Examine your motivation behind the decision. Does your existing pet want another animal in its life? What role will the animal play in your life? This decision is a 14 to 25 year commitment, so it is important to consider everyone in your family, including your existing pet.” Veterinary experts agree: Having your dog or cat spayed or neutered is the right, responsible choice. Need more convincing? Find out about some important benefits.
Want to do something for your pet that is great for his health and is also an act of responsible pet ownership? Have your animal spayed or neutered. When you make the decision to spay or neuter a pet, you are also making a socially responsible choice — each year, millions of unwanted dogs and cats are euthanized. So when would a pet owner not want to spay or neuter a pet? According to Bonnie Beaver, DVM, a professor at the College of Veterinary Medicine at Texas A&M University, the only instance should be if the dog or cat is a breeding animal. Some hunters feel that if a male hunting dog is castrated, he will not work effectively, but this is just an old wives’ tale. “There really hasn’t been any strong scientific evidence that says that this is the case,” says Dr. Beaver. Important Reasons to Spay and Neuter Pets Here are some of the pet health benefits of choosing to sterilize your furry companion:
How Will Your Pet Feel? Spaying or neutering a pet is a major surgery, but these are also some of the most commonly performed procedures. Your pet will be given general anesthesia during the surgery, and pain medications are often given after the procedure to minimize pain or discomfort. After the surgery, your veterinarian may recommend keeping your pet indoors in a quiet place to recover. She may also suggest ways to keep your pet calm and prevent your pet from running and jumping. Stitches are usually removed 10 to 14 days later. It is recommended that female dogs and cats not be spayed while they are in heat since they may be susceptible to increased blood loss. If you want to have an older dog or cat undergo sterilization, have your veterinarian evaluate your pet to make sure the animal is in good health before undergoing the procedure. Your pet will be calmer and better behaved after surgery — reducing the breeding instinct can eliminate the desire to roam to find a mate. More importantly, your dog or cat will be healthier, more content, and a more devoted member of the family. Do you remember what you were doing in August 1989 - before most had internet and big hair was still in fashon?
Those days are becoming a distant memory, but Caroline O'Riordan of Ireland still has one big reminder of that year; Her cat Phoebe, who will turn 25 this year. Phoebe is a pure white mixed breed that wasn’t expected to live long when she was born because she was so small. O’Riordan is in the process of filling out the paperwork to have Phoebe declared the world's oldest living feline by the Guinness Book of Records. "I have Phoebe's birth cert from the vet back in August 1989 but I just have to check what other criteria Guinness now require," O’Riordan told the Independent IE. Currently, the oldest living cat is Pinky, who was born on October 31, 1989, and lives with owner, Linda Anno, in Kansas. O’Riordan attributes Phoebe’s longevity to eating properly, not allowing her to put on too much weight and making sure she gets regular exercise. Jessica Vogelsang, DVM, told Pet360 these are all good things to do to keep your cat healthy and make sure it has a long life. “Like all things in life, longevity is a roll of the dice,” said Vogelsang. “Genetics plays a role, but it doesn't matter how great your cat's genes are if he's 22 pounds and walking the streets at night. Owners play the most important role in the life of a cat.” Vogelsang offers this advice for cat parents:
The average life expectancy for cats, according to the experts, is 12-15 years. The oldest living cats on record were 38 and 39 years old. Your veterinarian has just informed you that your cat has liver disease. You want to do what’s best for your feline friend so that he can live comfortably for as long as possible. Your vet may have recommended medications to treat the underlying cause of the problem, if it has been identified. Proper nutrition is also vital.
It is important to understand the role the liver plays in health and what happens when it is not functioning properly. The liver has many functions, including:
Many disorders of the liver can ultimately damage the organ and reduce its function, including:
Most liver disorders are progressive. Liver dysfunction and eventual failure will lead to the accumulation of toxins (causing nervous system and digestive tract abnormalities), the reduction of protein synthesis (resulting in leaky blood vessels and fluid accumulation and clotting problems), and low blood sugar levels. Dietary therapy can help the liver to function as well as possible and reduce further damage to the liver. The goals of nutritional intervention are to:
The first step is to change your cat’s diet to a formula that meets these characteristics. There are several types of brands to choose from depending on a cat’s specific needs. A home prepared diet made from a recipe put together by a veterinary nutritionist familiar with your cat’s case is another option for owners willing to cook for their cats. Your veterinarian can help you determine which diet is best. In general, diets for cats with liver disease should have:
It is always important to make dietary changes slowly to increase the chances of the cat accepting the new food. If the cat is unwilling to eat anything, a feeding tube should be placed to avoid a negative energy state and the development or worsening of hepatic lipidosis (fatty liver syndrome). If hepatic encephalopathy is present, a diet with low protein levels can help reduce the production of ammonia (a by-product of protein digestion). When ascites (fluid retention in the abdomen) is a problem, a very low sodium diet will help prevent worsening of the condition. Owners need to work closely with their veterinarians not only when cats are first diagnosed with liver disease, but at regular intervals to continue to provide the nutrition necessary for the longest, healthiest life possible. As cat owners, we all want to keep our four-legged friends healthy and happy. And, of course, we want to do everything we can to make sure that happens. Still, the average cat owner often overlooks some important aspects of their pet’s health care. Here are ten common mistakes made by cat owners:
1. Not seeking regular veterinary care All cats need regular medical care. Yet, on average, cats see their veterinarians less often than their canine counterparts — despite the fact that the number of cats kept as pets outnumbers the number of dogs. Why do cat owners not seek regular veterinary care for their cats? In many cases, it may be because they simply don’t understand the importance of these visits for their feline friend. Cats are masters of disguise when it comes to hiding the signs of illness. The early symptoms of disease are often subtle and difficult to notice. Especially for older cats, these signs may even be mistaken for “old age”. Your veterinarian is trained to look for signs of disease that may not be readily identifiable by the average pet owner. Early intervention of any disease or health condition that your cat may develop can lead to a more successful treatment outcome. In some cases, this may even prolong your cat’s life. Other times, the hassle of getting the cat to the veterinarian may be the reason for not visiting. Conditioning your cat to his carrier before the trip to the veterinarian can help. Take a look at this video featuring five simple tips for making a carrier cat-friendly. 2. Assuming indoor cats can’t get fleas and other parasites This is a common misconception. Cat owners frequently (and mistakenly) believe that because their cat lives indoors fleas and other parasites cannot become a problem. Too often, cat owners believe that parasite prevention is unnecessary for their indoor cat. Unfortunately, this is far from the truth. Fleas can find their way indoors very easily, hitch-hiking on your clothing or on a dog that does go outdoors, or finding their way through tiny openings in screens and doors. In addition, intestinal parasites like tapeworms and roundworms can be a problem as well. Mosquitoes can find their way indoors also, potentially exposing your cat to heartworms. Make sure your cat is on an appropriate parasite prevention program. 3. Overfeeding your cat Obesity is one of the most common problems veterinarians diagnose in cats. It is estimated that over 50% of pet cats are either overweight or obese. These cats are at risk for numerous health issues. Weight issues can effectively shorten your cat’s lifespan, sometimes by as much as 2 years or more. Feed your cat to keep him lean and in good body condition. 4. Assuming hairballs are normal An occasional hairball is not unusual. However, frequent vomiting (with or without hairballs in the vomit), coughing, or gagging is not normal and may indicate that there are health problems other than hairballs. Cats with these symptoms may be suffering from gastrointestinal disease, skin disease or a variety of other health issues. If your cat is displaying these types of symptoms, your cat should be examined by a veterinarian. 5. Not caring for your cat’s teeth Your cat’s oral health should not be overlooked. The majority of cats over 3 years of age already have evidence of some degree of dental disease. Brushing your cat’s teeth is the gold standard for in home oral health care and most cats will tolerate brushing with a little patience and conditioning. However, if brushing is impossible, your veterinarian can offer other options to help your cat’s mouth healthy and pain free. 6. Litter box mistakes. “My cat’s not using the litter box!” is one of the most common complaints I hear from cat owners. Too often, this behavior ends with the owner surrendering the cat to their local shelter. But many times, cats stop using the litter box because of their owners' mistakes. These mistakes may include not cleaning the box often enough, not providing a box big enough for the cat, choosing a litter the cat doesn't like, not providing enough litter boxes (in a multicat household), not placing the litter box in the right location, and allowing the cat to be startled or harassed while in the litter box. It used to be that unless you had an identification tag on your cat your chances of finding the cat if he or she went missing were slim to none. With modern technology, however, that’s changing. Although some people may be opposed to microchipping their cats because of religious or moral reasons, having your cat microchipped will help animal shelters and animal control officers reunite you with your cat if ever he or she becomes lost.
WHAT IS A MICROCHIP? Before you decide to microchip your cat or kitten, you should have a full understanding of what a microchip is and what it isn’t. A microchip identification tag is a small computer chip containing information linking you to your cat. The chip is inserted subcutaneously (under the skin) with a needle, a procedure which takes only a few minutes. It is common practice to insert the chip, which is non-toxic and about the size of a grain of rice, between your cat’s shoulder blades. It will not cause your cat discomfort or allergic reactions. Because the chip is skin deep you may be able to feel it occasionally, depending on the size and weight of your cat. Additionally, the chip can migrate with age, though because it is only skin deep it will not migrate into any vital organs. Animal shelters and veterinarians are aware that chips can migrate and as a result will scan a lost cat or dog’s entire body to check for a microchip. WHEN IS MY KITTEN OLD ENOUGH FOR A MICROCHIP? KIttens may be equipped with a microchip as young as five weeks old, though the size and age of the animal being microchipped (in this case a cat) is not what determines the appropriate time to insert the microchip. Rather, it is the health and stability of your kitten. Although the insertion of the microchip is noninvasive and does not require anesthesia, kittens younger than five weeks old are still very fragile and most likely still nursing. In most shelters it's standard practice to wait until the kitten is eight weeks old (or about two pounds) to insert the microchip. DOES THE MICROCHIP USE GPS? It is important to know that a microchip is not a Global Positioning System (GPS) or tracking device. You will not be able to use the microchip to trace your cat if he or she goes missing. Additionally, in order for the microchip to be effective you should make sure your information (phone number, home address, and emergency contact) is up to date. WHAT ARE THE BENEFITS OF A MICROCHIP? The main benefit of having a microchip is pretty straight forward — when paired with the right contact information and a microchip, you can be reunited with your cat if she should get lost. And since most microchip companies serve as an intermediary during the reuniting process, your home address and phone number is more secure than if it was placed on a regular ID tag. (Note: If preferable, microchip companies also give you the option of allowing the finder of your lost cat to call you directly.) You can also update your contact information with the microchip company as frequently as you’d like by simply making a phone call or sending an e-mail. In fact, it is recommended that change your contact information every time you change your phone number or address. Most of us don’t want to think of the worst case scenario until it happens. Often we can’t fathom the idea of our cats escaping (even indoor cats!), but there are plenty of reasons it occurs. Whether your cat runs away from the cat sitter, escapes during a party, or bolts after hearing a slew of fireworks, having your cat microchipped can be a lifesaver. Living with a cat is always an adventure, if one takes the time to observe, to reflect, and to wonder about some of the fascinating behaviors displayed in the course of a single day by a kitten or a cat!!
And, when you have more than one feline in your home, of course there are all the other social interactive types of behaviors to watch and wonder about, too!! One thing you can definitely be sure about - cats do EVERYTHING for a reason!! Sometimes, that reason may involve something that we humans cannot see, hear or smell; and sometimes, that reason may simply and miraculously be part of the genetic and instinctive make-up of the wonderful animal we call a “cat”. Here are some of the more common behaviors many cat owners have observed in their own felines, and perhaps even wondered about the reasons behind that behavior and/or the best way to respond to a certain behavior. 1. Dunking favorite toys in food or water bowl Has your cat ever dropped his favorite catnip mouse or rubber fetching ball in his water bowl? Or, have you gone to re-fill his food bowl, only to find a special toy of his right in the middle? It just might be that your cat is trying to find a “safe” place for his favorite things. It often happens that the toy that ends up in the water or food bowl is often a toy that has recently been enjoyed by your cat, or even by your cat with you. In the wild, cats often take their prey back to their “nest” area, and hide it from predators. Indoor cats don’t really have a “nest” per se, so they often consider their food and water dishes as the “safest” areas within their “territory”. 2. Kneading you with his paws Most people realize that when their cat kneads your stomach with his paws, he is showing his love for you. Usually, the cat will have a very special, loving expression on his face; he may be purring, and he may even be drooling slightly. Your cat is back in touch with his instincts as a kitten when he does this, and feeling the same sense of comfort and warmth that he did as a kitten when he was with his mother. Young kittens knead their mother’s nipples to stimulate the “let down” reflex in her so that her milk flows for the kittens to suckle. If his kneading behavior is uncomfortable for you, be sure to keep your cat’s nails clipped short, and maybe keep an extra towel around to pad the area he is kneading! 3. Sudden hissing while you are petting him Sometimes, your cat may give you a hiss, or even try to scratch or bite you seemingly without warning right in the middle of what you thought was a pleasant petting or stroking session with him. It doesn’t mean that your cat no longer likes you! This behavior most likely is just the only way he knows to signal to you that he has had enough of the petting and stroking - perhaps it has gone on longer than what he enjoys. Chances are, if you think about it, perhaps you had actually continued the session longer than usual, or started thinking about something else while petting him, not realizing that your cat was getting uncomfortable and that so much time had passed. 4. Licking or chewing photographs & plastic bags This is a difficult behavior to explain, and some cats are more prone to it than others. Most feline behaviorists have come to believe that some cats find a slight odor to the plastic and/or film surfaces simply irresistible, and also that the coolness and texture of the plastic and/or film must feel and taste good on the cat’s tongue. It may also be another form of trying to “nurse” - sort of a feline “oral compulsive” behavior. 5. Deciding to play with you in the middle of the night Maybe your cat’s been listening to too many country-western tunes on the radio about “the night time being the right time”! It can certainly be annoying when your cat behaves this way. But actually, the night time is the prime hunting time for cats in the wild, and his instincts may be telling him to be active at night. Galloping over furniture and knocking over everything in his path may be his way of looking for “prey”! Another key reason for cats behaving this way is when their human families are away all day, it only makes sense that the cat may choose the day time to sleep and snooze, so it can be awake and active when his human family is home. Young kittens and cats especially can be very active at night. Try making efforts to spend time with your cat before and after work, and any time you can during the day, and make a special ritual before bed of wearing him out with interactive toys such as wand toys, feather toys, Whirly Birds, etc., so that he gets to spend time with you, yet gets tired out just before you go to bed. If you have a single cat who insists on behaving this way, you might want to consider getting him a feline companion so that he would not be bored during the day, and could work off some of that energy during the day instead of saving it all up for the night. 6. Scratching his paws on glass windows This is most likely your cat’s way of “testing” the glass to be sure that it does effectively keep him away from what he can see beyond the glass. Sometimes, he may see (or hear) things that definitely interest him and that he’d like to explore such as other cats, other animals, potential prey such as butterflies or birds, people, cars, moving and stationary objects. He can be expressing his frustration that he can’t get beyond the glass. And, as the saying goes, “you can’t blame him for trying”! 7. Chattering his teeth at birds Most cats make that quite distinctive teeth chattering sort of noise that seems reserved specifically for when they see birds or squirrels, whether outside or on television. Actually, that noise may be more of an instinct than we realize. Many feline behavior specialists have noted the similarity of that noise to the special neck bite that cats use in the wild designed to kill a bird or small rodent quickly and efficiently, before they have a chance to struggle. Young kittens and cubs in the wild have the opportunity to practice this special bite; house cats may just be showing their excitement at seeing potential prey, or possibly their frustration (with the excitement, too) in seeing potential prey that they cannot get to. Many times, you may notice that your cat’s tail is getting puffy, or is twitching in a special way that accompanies his special chattering noises. 8. Trying to bury his food bowl Sometimes after eating, or simply when you put down a bowl of wet food, your cat may try to let you know that the food is not to his liking by trying to “bury” the entire bowl! This behavior can also occur when the cat is displeased with the location of his food bowl, the food itself, or possibly when he is not very hungry, and is trying to “bury” his food (which he is then thinking of as “prey”) for him to have later on, when he is perhaps more ready to eat. 9. Preferring water out of a running faucet Not surprisingly, cats prefer their water fresh, also. The motion of water coming out of a faucet is very appealing to their sense of hearing, as well as of sight, and possibly even of smell. Even if your cat’s water dish looks clean, bacteria can collect very quickly especially in ceramic and plastic bowls. Always use stainless steel bowls for food and for water for your kitty. And, it is best to change his water daily, after rinsing out his water bowl thoroughly, or even washing it daily. Water that has been standing even a few hours loses oxygen; cats are smart enough to know that the freshest water still has lots of oxygen in it, which is certainly true in the running fresh water right out of the tap. 10. Rubs his head against you or your shoes Your cat has special scent glands located in various parts of his body, including the area underneath the skin on his chin, and the area around his eyes. When your cat rubs up against you with his head, he is actually “marking” you with his own scent, as a signal to other cats that he is claiming you as “his”! You will probably notice that when your cat is doing this behavior, he is in a loving, peaceful and contented mood. The scent glands around his face release what are known as “facial pheromones”, sometimes dubbed “happy hormones”! You should feel honored when your cat does this behavior to you as it is demonstrating his deep affection for you. Rubbing his head against your shoes is also a marking behavior - perhaps your cat is trying to cover up the scents from where you have been during the course of the day (which of course will be on your shoes) with his own scent, signifying again his “claim” on you. 11. Attacking your ankles as you walk by This behavior usually signifies a kitten or cat who is bored! Cats need to play and to practice their hunting techniques. An indoor cat (especially an active breed like a Bengal, Ocicat or an Abyssinian), without adequate toys, cat furniture and other objects and situations to stimulate him, may well feel that his only chance to practice these skills is on you. They may start making up elaborate prey games whereby they hide behind furniture or out of your sight, and wait for you to walk down a hall, or in to their “lair” where they can ambush you. It is important for you to realize that your cat is not trying to hurt you, and is probably unaware that he may be hurting you. A cat doing this behavior needs more scratching and climbing toys and furniture around, and also may benefit from stuffed animals to drag around, animal-style cat beds which can give them the illusion of company and the security of “mom” or a sibling. A cat that continues with this behavior may well benefit from having another feline friend, who will be able to wrestle and play with him, and help burn off some of that energy he feels. Most often, the cats who exhibit this behavior are males, and there may be some sexual impulses involved, even if the male is neutered. A possible way to avoid this behavior turning in to a bad habit (and your legs and ankles turning in to a war zone) would be to have one of your cat’s favorite rubber balls or mouse toys in your hand, and before reaching the spot where your cat usually ambushes you, try throwing the toy down the hall or in another direction. The idea is to recognize that your cat wants to engage you in a play game ritual, but to make the ritual more fun and safe for you. 12. Burying outside his litter box If your cat is scratching around the floor or area around the OUTSIDE of his litter box, especially if this is right after he has used the litter box, he is most likely trying to tell you that something is not right to him about his litter box; either he is displeased with the feel of the litter; the smell of the litter; the type of box; the location of the box; or something to that affect. The only way he can think of to demonstrate this to you is for him to try to “bury” the area outside of his box. If all was well to him with his litter and litter box arrangement, he would jump in to his box, do his business, bury his urine or feces, then jump out and go back to what he was doing. 13. Trying to nurse on clothes or objects This behavior is most often displayed by a kitten or cat who was taken or weaned from his mother too early. Keep in mind that just like humans, cats are individuals too, and some may need more time with their mothers for emotional reasons, than others. This behavior often is one that the cat will outgrow as it gets older; however, some cats never seem to outgrow this special babyish behavior. The way to avoid your cat “nursing” on an item of clothing or household item you don’t want him to suck and chew on, is to put something on the item that is distasteful to your cat, such as citrus-smelling agents designed for this purpose. This also works well with cats who like to chew on electric cords. Be aware though that chewing electric cords is often thought to be directly related to your cat’s anxiety due to being separated from you. 14. Collecting small round objects & string & storing them in a safe place Cats who exhibit this behavior (and it seems some breeds are more prone to this than others) are usually trying to utilize their natural instinct to retrieve. In the wild, cats hunt their prey, then they bring their prey back to a safe place before they consume it. With house cats, the challenge often becomes how to create safe and meaningful ways for your cat to be able to “hunt” and to “retrieve”. Therefore, some cats seem to develop an enjoyment of taking small objects such as their toys, but often small objects such as jewelry or other possessions of their owners, and collecting them in a particular spot. 15. Trying to bolt outside the minute you open the door Cats that have this figured out and are consistent with this behavior are probably strongly attracted to the sights, smells and sounds of the outdoors. Cats like this may do well if you can build a small, safe enclosed area right outside your back door, or if you can try adding a greenhouse window type of enclosure to his favorite window. Of course, ensuring your cat is fixed is the first line of defense, but even neutered and spayed adult cats can still feel their deep instincts to find a mate, and this can be triggered by them hearing or smelling another cat outdoors. If you have a cat like this, getting a companion feline for them is probably a very good thing to do, and they definitely will also benefit from being entertained by having the radio on, the television, hiding their toys around your living room while you are gone, providing several tall pieces of cat furniture, possibly hammock style cat beds at your windows. Try using different doors to enter and exit your house, so that your behavior is not so predictable. Your cat can’t be waiting and watching 2 or 3 doors at the same time! 16. Constantly making noise or meowing Some cats, of course, are definitely “talkers” and are very vocal all the time! However, if your cat has been checked out by your vet and there are no medical problems, and he is really trying to get your attention with his constant meowing, it’s time to start paying close attention and try to figure out what it is your cat is trying to tell you! He is possibly hungry; possibly lonely; his litter box is possibly not clean enough for his liking; there may be changes in your home or personal routine that are upsetting to him. Remember - your cat has feelings too, and you should try to look at things from HIS point of view - not yours. 17. Slowly blinking his eyes at you This is a fun feline behavior to observe as it usually signals that your cat is very content and serene at that moment. I will often sit quietly and slowly blink my eyes back at my cat, and quite often, this will be just the final sweet comfort that will make them close their eyes completely, secure that they are loved back, for a luxurious cat-nap. 18. Biting Young kittens between the ages of 3 weeks old and 8 months old will be teething off and on, and will have very strong needs to bite. Just like baby children, kittens are born without teeth, start getting their first baby teeth at about 3-4 weeks old, then they will lose their baby teeth and have their adult teeth come in up until the age of about 8 months old. So the trick here is not to keep them from biting; but rather, to provide them appropriate items to bite. We use heavy-duty plastic drinking straws with our kittens (being careful to cut off any bitten ends and discard the entire straw before it becomes dangerous, as with any toy), and train them from the start that toys and straws are purr-rectly fine to bite, but human body parts are off-limits! If a kitten learns this from the start, there is hardly ever an inappropriate biting behavior as an adult. Some cats start biting out of misplaced aggression, which usually can be countered by providing the cat a feline playmate, and/or providing them more cat toys, cat furniture, and making their environment more stimulating for them. For a cat with a serious biting problem, often the quickest way to teach them not to bite you is to immediately blow on his face, as soon as you realize he is biting or is about to bite you. Saying “NO!” firmly at the same time reinforces this training. At all times, it is critical that you be thinking and acting on the firm belief that “toys and straws are for biting; human hands are for giving and receiving love”. Dogs and cats are living longer and longer these days. Though it may seem counterintuitive, in some respects we should be treating our senior pets like we did when they were still puppies and kittens. Here are five ways how (and why) you should do just that.
1. Like puppies and kittens, senior pets require your extra attention. Senior pets may not be as adventurous as their younger counterparts, but they are frailer and can easily injure themselves around the house or while playing outside. Senior pets may also suffer vision or hearing loss that makes ensuring their safety even more important. In addition, senior pets are prone to age-related illnesses. Watch your senior pet closely. Do not place your senior dog or cat in a situation where harm may befall your pet. If your pet experiences a change in behavior or is not acting like him or herself, consult your veterinarian. 2. Like puppies and kittens, senior pets require regular visits to the veterinarian. Senior pets are susceptible to various illnesses, including dental disease, arthritis, heart disease, and kidney disease. Early symptoms of these diseases may be difficult to impossible to detect at home. However, your veterinarian is trained to look for subtle signs of illness and also has access to diagnostics (e.g., blood and urine testing, radiographs, ultrasound, etc.) that can easily identify problems early in their development. The sooner a problem is detected, the sooner it can be addressed. Early intervention will prolong your pet’s life, make your pet more comfortable, and will likely be less expensive for you than waiting until your pet suffers a crisis. This is why experts recommend that senior pets be examined by a veterinarian every six months. 3. Like puppies and kittens, senior pets require an age appropriate diet. Calories and nutrients are just as important for senior pets as they are for puppies and kittens. However, senior pets may have specific unique dietary needs due to an existing disease or condition. For instance, pets with arthritis might benefit from a diet containing such things as glucosamine and fatty acids. Pets with kidney disease, meanwhile, may have electrolyte disturbances that must be addressed in the diet. Some seniors may even be overweight and require lower calorie diets; still others may be underweight and require a highly palatable, nutritionally dense food. Your veterinarian can help you choose an appropriate diet for your senior pet based on your pet’s individual nutritional requirements. 4. Like puppies and kittens, senior pets require alterations in their environment. For young pets, safety is a major concern and pet owners need to puppy- or kitten-proof their home. In the case of older pets, the environment should be altered to address your pet’s comfort and accessibility. Older pets will appreciate a soft bed or perhaps a heated bed to provide even more relief for sore joints. For those pets that have difficulty getting around, providing ramps for easier access to beds and stairs should also be considered. Even a ramp to get into and out of the car would be appreciated, especially for larger dogs that cannot simply be lifted and placed in the car. For cats, placing ramps near perches can make it easier for your senior to access his favorite spots. Consider a litter box with low sides in an easy to reach area as well. 5. Like puppies and kittens, senior pets will benefit from a little extra playtime/exercise. Your senior may not be all that playful or active on his own but encouraging him to become more active will have numerous positive effects. Exercise will keep joints supple and muscles strong. Play and exercise will also provide mental stimulation for your pet. When you cannot play with your pet yourself, puzzles can be an acceptable and enjoyable alternative. Check with your veterinarian though about what level of exercise is safe for your pet. This will vary from one pet to another and is dependent on your pet’s health. |
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For the LOVE of Pets The goal of this blog is to help educate pet owners by sharing pet health facts and pet news articles...and ... sometimes put a smile on your face with a cute or funny pet story! Categories
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