A massive powerhouse of a breed, the Neapolitan Mastiff is a heavy-boned and awe-inspiring dog bred by the Romans as a guardian and defender of owner and property. Today the Neapolitan Mastiff is considered an affectionate family pet and excellent guard dog, but it may not mix well with other animals in the home.

Physical Characteristics
The Neapolitan Mastiff, with its alarming appearance, is said to have been bred intentionally to frighten intruders. The dog’s loose skin, dewlap, and dark coat colors (gray, black, mahogany, or tawny) makes it look even larger than it actually is. It can, however, jump to action with incredible speed when required.

The giant and muscular body is good for knocking down an intruder, while its enormous head and powerful jaws was meant to hold or smash an opponent. Due to its loose skin, some perceive the dog to have a scary expression.

Personality and Temperament
For many centuries, the breed was used as a family guardian, thus making the Neapolitan Mastiff a truly devoted, watchful, and loyal dog, which is wary of strangers and tolerant of familiar people. It loves to stay at home and show affection towards children, but its huge size can lead to accidents.

The Neapolitan may not mix properly with other dogs, particularly the dominating types. However, this can be rectified if the dog is trained to socialize at a young age.

Care
Even though the dog does not need a great deal of physical exercise, it requires plenty of space to live. One cannot expect the giant Neapolitan Mastiff to force itself into small living quarters. The breed is fond of the outdoors but does not do well in warm weather.

Just like other giant breeds, its veterinary, boarding, and food bills can be quite high. Obsessive house cleaners should also think twice before getting such a dog, as the breed often makes messes with its food and drink, and tends to drool.

Health
The Neapolitan Mastiff, which has an average lifespan of 8 to 10 years, is susceptible to major health issues such as canine hip dysplasia (CHD),demodicosis, and cardiomyopathy, and minor concerns like "cherry eye" and elbow dysplasia. To identify some of these issues early, a veterinarian may recommend hip, eye, elbow, and cardiac exams for this breed of dog. It should also be noted that Neapolitan Mastiff breeding usually requires Caesarean delivery and artificial insemination.

History and Background
Large, muscular, and powerful dogs, in the tradition of the giant war dogs of Asia and the Middle East, have existed since ancient times. These dogs were used to guard homes, control livestock, and fight lions, elephants, and men in battle. Alexander the Great (356 to 323 B.C.) distributed some native animals in the regions he conquered and interbred some of them with shorthaired Indian dogs, resulting in the Molossus, which was the progenitor of several modern breeds.

These Molossus dogs were acquired by the Romans after they conquered Greece. And in 55 B.C. the Romans took a liking to the boisterous mastiffs of Britain, which bravely fought to defend their country. These two breeds were crossed to produce an excellent variety of war dog and giant gladiator, commonly referred to as "Mastini."

The breed was perfected in southern Italy’s Neapolitan area, when they guarded homes and estates. But little of the breed was known in the rest of the world until 1946, when the dog was displayed in a dog show in Naples.

Instantly enamored with the breed, Dr. Piero Scanziani of Italy established a breeding kennel to rescue the dog from obscurity. He later codified the breed's standard and requested that the FCI (Federation Cynologique Interantionale) and the Italian kennel club recognize the breed as Mastino Napoletano.

By the mid-20th century, Italian immigrants had introduced the breed to several European countries and the United States, but it wasn't until 1973 that the Neapolitan Mastiff Club of America was formed. The American Kennel Club approved a standard in 1996, and in 2004, the dog was admitted into the Working Group.

Owen Howkins, 8, has a rare muscle disorder and was afraid to ever leave his house. That was until he met a 3-legged dog named Haatchi.

Owen's health condition, called Schwartz-Jampel Syndrome, causes his muscles to always be in a state of tension. This not only causes Owen pain and discomfort, but made him feel self-conscious when strangers would gawk at him. All that changed when he met Haatchi, an Anatolian Shepherd that lost his leg in a train accident while tied up to a railway line.

After being rescued by the RSPCA, Haatchi would end up in the home of Owen's family and they quickly became the best of friends. Owen and Haatchi now go everywhere together.

Even more inspiring, the confidence in Owen has grown and grown over the last year — all thanks to Haatchi.

Watch "A Boy and His Dog," which has already garnered over 1 million views on YouTube, below. But have tissues nearby…

Lugging a giant bag of dog food around at mealtime can take a toll on your back, the amount of space left for you dried goods and aesthetics of your kitchen or pantry. Our suggestion? Dump the bag and pick up a container for easy storing and handling.

Here are 5 tips to help you find the right one for you. 

1. Let the Container Blend in
If you’ve got a little extra room and are looking for something to tastefully hide large bags of food, try a tilt out hamper in a wood finish. This option from the Home Depot matches any wood cabinets or dining sets and its flat top provides additional space for a vases or appliances that may be needing a home. If you’re limited on space, however …

2. Let the Container Stand Out
Just because you’ve got to keep your dog’s food out in the open doesn’t mean you can’t find a container that’s appealing to the eye. These canisters from Harry Barker are made from FDA-approved recycled steel and can fit from 10 to 40 pounds of dry dog food. If silver doesn’t match your décor, the bins also come in white.

3. Store Food and Toys (or Treats) in the Same Place
We all love buying one product to solve multiple problems, and dog food storage is no exception. Try using a dual-bin garbage can like this one from The Container Store to keep your dog’s dry food and toys in the same place but separate by bin. If you’ve got lots of bite-size treats in addition to dry food, a dual dispenser is another great option to help clear up some counter space and keep food and treats in the same place.

4. Make Sure it’s Airtight
There are a lot of different options to utilize when storing your pet’s food but the one commandment to follow across the board is to keep food in airtight containers. This will keep any unwanted pests (or pets) out and allow food to stay fresh. This large, airtight food storage bin comes with a washable liner and a magnetic scoop that stores underneath the lid of the bin. If you’re looking for a smaller option, try the Gamma Vittles Vault that holds up to 25 pounds of food in a white, high-impact resistant plastic container.

5. Plan for Storing Food on the Go
Once you’ve figured out a plan for how to store food at home, make sure you’ve got one in place for travel, too. This feeding system from Gamma Vittles includes a four-quart airtight plastic container, two dishes and a handle for keeping everything together. If only packing your own suitcase was as easy!

The Food and Drug Administration advises keeping all dry pet food in a cool, dry place under 80 degrees inside a clean plastic container with a lid. If possible, keep your pet’s food away from your garbage and household trash and any areas where you prepare or store your own food. Any unused wet food should be refrigerated or discarded immediately after mealtime, according to the FDA.

Pet parents with dogs that have suffered paralyzing spinal cord injuries know how heartbreaking it is to see their 4-legged kids struggle, even if they have specially designed wheels that help them to get around.

That’s why a recent study that involved stem cell research gives new hope to these pet parents.

According to Popsci, scientists at Cambridge University in Great Britain successfully removed stem cells, called olfactory ensheathing cells, from the noses of affected dogs, multiplied the cells in a lab, and then injected them into the injury points of the animals.

According to the article, which cited the BBC, many of the 23 dogs in the study that received the injection had improvement in walking. There were also 11 dogs used as a control group; none of those dogs recovered the use of their hind legs.

The dogs that regained use of their hind legs had been using especially designed wheel chairs for dogs. After the injection, which allowed the dogs to grow new connections in the affected nerves in their spinal cords, the dogs were able to relearn the ability to walk using all four feet.

The study involved mostly Dachshunds, which are prone to injury. "Weiner dogs" have a long body and are typically quite active. Jumping or even running or playing can sometimes cause spinal cord injury.

Jasper, a Dachshund in the study who could not walk at all regained full use of his legs. "When we took him out we used a sling for his back legs so that he could exercise the front ones. It was heartbreaking. But now we can’t stop him whizzing 'round the house, and he can even keep up with the two other dogs we own," Jasper’s owner, May Hay, said in a statement. "It’s utterly magic.”

Stem cell therapies have come a long way for our 4-legged pets in the past few years. Many veterinarians now use stem cell therapy to help dogs suffering from hip dysplasia, a common painful genetic condition that affects many dogs, especially German Shepherds and some other large breed dogs.

More than 30 years ago, I saw a dog in a wheelchair for the first time. A neighbor of my in-laws had a Chihuahua that suffered some sort of injury that rendered her back legs useless. The man had designed and built the dog a homemade wheelchair. I thought it was brilliant, but my mother in law thought it was cruel. I could never reason that logic. The dog was not in pain and seemed happy wheeling around the yard.

Could these stem cell therapies help humans as well? “We're confident that the technique might be able to restore at least a small amount of movement in human patients with spinal cord injuries, but that's a long way from saying they might be able to regain all lost function,” said Robin Franklin, a regeneration biologist at the Wellcome Trust MRC Stem Cell Institute and study co-author.

We didn’t even know this could be done 30 years ago. I think it is more hopeful for both humans and pets than we might realize today.

Xolo, 'Mexican Hairless Dog'
Popularly known as the "Mexican hairless dog," the Xoloitzcuintli (pronounced shoh-loyts-kweent-lee) belongs to one of the oldest of the dog breeds, and is in fact believed to have been brought to the Americas during the monumental migration of humans across the Bering Strait an estimated 12,000 years ago.

Physical Characteristics
As mentioned above, the Xoloitzcuintli (or Xolo) is often referred to by its nickname, the Mexican hairless dog. This is generally a spot on reference to the Xolo’s normal lack of hair, though many Xolos are in fact born with a light coating of hair. This also serves to make the Xolo one of the hypoallergenic breeds. Even those that are born with and keep their hair have a close, flat coat. The preferred colors for the Xolo are darker shades of gray, red, bronze, brown, and varying shades of black.

Thus far, the Xolo is a product of evolution rather than selective breeding. The Xolo may be one of three sizes: toy, miniature and standard. The toy size stands at a height of 10-14 inches at the withers; the miniature at a height of 14-18 inches at the withers; and the standard at a height of 18-23 inches at the withers.

The body type is rectangular, with a slightly longer body length than height, waist tucked up. The neck is gracefully long with a wedge shaped head, tapered muzzle, and naturally (uncropped) pointed ears.

For Xolos that belong to the hairless variety, there may still be some small amount of short hair on the top of the head, feet and at the end part of the tail. For coated Xolos, the hair covers all of the body, but does not grow long.

Personality and Temperament
Prized as both a companion and guard dog, the Xoloitzcuintli maintains a calm demeanor even as it remains attentive to its surroundings.  It is an intelligent breed, and generally takes to training easily, as long as the training is gentle and consistent. The Xolo will not respond well to harsh training methods.

While the adult Xolo is known for being composed and relaxed, the Xolo puppy, like many young animals, is more high energy and will require more daily exercise and attention – and lots of chew toys. If this is given appropriately and as needed and training is consistent and enforced with affection, the Xolo puppy will grow into an admirable and reliable representative for its breed.

The Xolo does retain some of its more primitive characteristics, chiefly as a hunter of small game, so its environment should be one in which it will not be able to easily escape (e.g., high fences, closed gates).

Humans have long believed that the Xolo’s warm, soft skin radiates healing energy, so as part of its natural evolution has been in alignment with its human companions, the Xolo has developed  a strong sense of tranquility and patience with humans.  The Xolo is believed to relieve the pains associated with rheumatism and head pains, as well as to help relieve insomnia.

Care
The Xoloitzcuintli needs very little grooming. Generally, a soft, warm cloth to cleanse the skin is sufficient.  Exercise needs are moderate. Daily walks or jogs and outdoor play during warm weather will benefit the Xolo’s health.  Skin care should be undertaken carefully, with regular checks to make sure the skin has not become too dry. Skin care products, lotions, shampoos or anything that has the potential to irritate the skin should be avoided.

With these precautions in mind, keeping your Xolo safe from harsh sunlight, as well as protecting it from cold temperatures will be main concerns. Because they are sensitive to climate, Xolos are considered indoor dogs. They should never be left outdoors for long periods of time. During cold seasons, your Xolo may be more comfortable wearing a sweater, and of course, spending as little time outdoors in the cold as possible.

Health
As a result of its natural evolution, the Xoloitzcuintli is a vigorous and healthy breed, with very few health concerns. As previously mentioned, the skin should be protected from chemicals, sun, and temperate changes. When products are needed, stick to skin care products that are specifically formulated for sensitive skin (like baby sun block, baby lotion, etc.). It is always a good idea to check with your veterinarian before using anything new on your Xolo’s skin.

History and Background
This little dog with the complicated name dates back some 3,500 years ago, to the time of the Aztecs. Thought to have gone extinct at one point because of its rarity, the Xoloitzcuintli made a come-back in the dog breed world in the 1950s after a campaign was waged to save the breed from obscurity. 

It is believed by some archeologists that the Xolo was brought to the Americas by people who migrated from the Asian continents to [what is now] the North American and South American continents, hypothetically settling as the first residents of the continents and holding their spot as the "natives" until later Europeans arrived.

The name Xoloitzcuintli is a portmanteau of Xolotl, the name of an Aztek Indian god, and Itzcuintli, the Aztec word for dog. Perhaps because of the Xolo’s easygoing and comforting personality, the people who chose this breed as a companion bestowed upon it the favor of the gods, giving it a creation history that rivaled man’s own narrative.

Pet owners understandably become concerned when they think that their beloved companion is not eating enough. When I’m presented with a case like this, the first thing I do is try to determine if a problem truly exists. Sometimes owners mistake picky eating for not eating. As long as the pet is not too thin and is maintaining his or her weight, then caloric intake is fine. Conversely, if the pet is underweight or has been losing weight, we do have a problem. The challenge is to find out why the dog is not eating enough.

A few questions will usually identify or rule out a problem with the food itself. If the owner purchases 40 pound bags of kibble for a 10 pound dog, the food is either losing its appeal at best, or at worst, starting to turn rancid. Dry food remains fresh for about one month after the bag is opened. It stays fresher in a tightly closed bag or container. Canned food is only good for about 3-5 days after opening if it is kept refrigerated.

Most dogs readily accept new foods, but if the type of food was recently changed, the dog may truly prefer the old variety. Trying the previous food again will determine if this is the case. Environmental factors can play a role too. If it’s too cold or hot, the aroma (or lack thereof) of the food may not be enticing the pet to eat.

Once I’ve ruled out a problem with the food, I’m left with the possibility of a medical problem. Unless the answer is readily apparent on a physical examination (e.g., an oral tumor), I next recommend a complete blood profile, urinalysis, and fecal examination to rule out diseases that affect the taste and smell of foods. Conditions such as kidney disease, inflammatory bowel disease (IBD), and liver disorders can reduce the dog’s sense of smell and taste (extrapolated from studies in humans and expected to hold true for dogs as well), but any disease that makes a pet feel nauseous or weak can reduce his desire to eat. Most conditions can be identified through some combination of a good physical examination, lab work, and imaging studies (e.g., X-rays or ultrasound).

Once a medical problem is identified and treatment started, how can you make food more appealing to your dog? Warming it to body temperature (about 100 degrees Fahrenheit) using a microwave or warm water will increase its aroma, but take care not to overdo it and burn the dog’s mouth. Serving the meal right after an enjoyable activity, like a walk, hand feeding, and praising the dog after he takes a bite may also help encourage him to eat.

If a dog just won’t eat a particular food, try a different brand or formulation. Older dogs (over 7 years of age) may enjoy a senior diet as these foods are made to be more palatable for dogs that may have a reduced sense of smell. You can also try adding small amounts of other foods to encourage him to eat. Adding a small amount of syrup, honey, or salt-free chicken broth may entice him. Fruits and veggies are also good additives, but avoid grapes, raisins, and onions, which can be toxic.

If none of these recommendations do the trick, talk to your veterinarian. Some dogs need the help of an appetite stimulant or feeding tube as they recover and regain their appetites.

When pets get lost and are found weeks, months or even sometimes years later, they are typically a little worse for wear.

Not so for Woosie, a cat in Great Britain, that ran away from home three years ago. Instead of joining a circus, he went to live at a pastry factory, which made him one fat cat.

“He’s a heavy cat now - he’s quite large. We think that he may have been eating all the pasties and sandwiches up there,” Helen Johns, Woosie’s human mom, told the U.K’s Daily Mail.

A Long Trip to the Pastry Factory
Woosie’s journey began in Gover in 2011 when, as they always did, the Johns let out their beloved cat for a romp in the garden. Unfortunately, Woosie never returned.

It wasn’t long after that Woosie would show up at the at the Ginsters pastry factory nearly 30 miles away!

How he got there is anyone’s guess, but it’s been theorized that he might have hitched a ride on a delivery truck or in another vehicle going to the area.

Workers quickly took to the cat and “adopted” him. They apparently fed him rich snacks and sandwiches, and even allowed him free reign of the office. In return, Woosie would meet workers outside every morning.

It wasn’t until this past week that a worker took the cat, whom they named George, to the vet. When he was scanned for a microchip, his rightful owners were located.

Johns said they were “godsmacked” when they received the call from the vet.

Even better, Woosie has taken to his home again as if he had never left — aside from the occasional hiss at the other housecat, Lola, who was just a kitten when Woosie disappeared.

“He came home on Tuesday evening, came straight into the house and just stretched out in the chair as if nothing had happened,” Johns said. “He’s like Lord Muck. It’s surreal. He’s unfazed by it.”

Crystalluria in Dogs
Crystalluria is characterized by the presence of crystals in the urine. Crystals form only in urine that is, or recently has been, supersaturated with crystallogenic substances; thus crystalluria represents a risk factor for kidney stones. The detection of urine crystals is not synonymous with kidney stones or the clinical signs associated with them, nor is detection of urine crystals irrefutable evidence of a stone-forming tendency, but there is some association of an increased risk for kidney stones for animals that are afflicted with crystalluria, and crystals in the urine can be an indication of kidney stones (also referred to as renal stones).

Proper identification and interpretation of urine crystals is important in determining a medical strategy for treating the condition, since certain crystal types will indicate an underlying disease. Evaluation of urine crystals may aid in detection of the disorders that predispose the dog to stone formation, estimation of the mineral composition of the stones, and evaluation of the effectiveness of the medical procedures initiated to dissolve or prevent the stones.

Crystalluria in individuals with anatomically and functionally normal urinary tracts is usually harmless because the crystals are eliminated before they grow large enough to interfere with normal urinary function. Even so, they represent a risk factor for kidney stones.

Crystals that form in the urine following elimination or removal of urine from the patient often are of little clinical importance (i.e., crystals formed in the urine after leaving the body). Identification of crystals that have formed in vitro (in a lab environment) will not justify therapy. Situations that will require further follow-up are instances where some types of crystals are detected in patients without symptoms (asymptomatic); large aggregates of crystals (e.g., calcium oxalate or magnesium ammonium phosphate) in apparently normal individuals are detected; or, when detection of any form of crystals in fresh urine collected from patients with confirmed kidney stones may have diagnostic, prognostic, or therapeutic importance.

Breeds that are prone to calcium oxalate crystals in the urine are miniature schnauzers, Yorkshire terriers, lhasa apsos, and miniature poodle dogs. Dachshunds, English bulldogs, and Newfoundlands are prone to cystine crystals in the urine. Dalmatians and English bulldogs tend to have ammonium crystals in the urine, and Cavalier King Charles spaniels are given to crystallized xanthine stones.

Symptoms and Types
None, or those caused by concomitant kidney stones.

Causes

• Concentration of crystallogenic substances in urine (which in turn is influenced by their rate of excretion and urine concentration of water).
• Urine pH is off balance – acidic or alkaline levels need to be balanced
• Solubility of crystallogenic substances in urine.
• Excretion of diagnostic agents (e.g., radiopaque contrast agents) and medications (e.g., sulfonamides).
• Dietary influence—hospital diet may differ from home diet; timing of sample collection (fasting versus postprandial [after a meal]) may influence evidence of crystalluria.

Diagnosis
X-ray or ultrasound may be able to detect some stones. Urinalysis will be the major tool for analysis of crystalluria.


Treatment
Treatment will involve managing clinically important crystalluria by eliminating or controlling the underlying cause(s), or associated risk factors, and minimizing clinically important crystalluria by increasing urine volume, encouraging complete and frequent voiding, modifying the diet, and in some instances by appropriate drug therapy. Modifying pH levels may also be called for.

Living and Management
Your veterinarian will want to analyze the urine again to determine if crystalluria is still present, since persistent crystalluria may contribute to formation and growth of kidney stones. In addition, chronic crystalluria may solidify crystalline-matrix plugs, resulting in a urethral obstruction.

Lovingly referred to by dog fanciers as the Yorkie, the Yorkshire Terrier is a miniature dog breed developed in England in the mid-19th century. Though small in stature, the Yorkie's large personality brings a love for adventure, activity, and affection to every human family that is lucky to have one in their lives.

Physical Characteristics
The Yorkshire Terrier has a confident carriage, a compact body, and a sharp, smart expression. The hallmark of the Yorkie is its coat color: a clear shade of tan with a dark steel blue hue. This coat, which is fine, silky, long, glossy, and straight, may be cut in various styles, but is generally trimmed to floor length for dog competitions, giving it a neater and more elegant appearance, and easing its movement.

Personality and Temperament
Although the dog may be small in size, it is bold, curious, and always ready for an adventure. Yorkies are known to be stubborn and can be assertive towards small animals or unfamiliar dogs, a reflection of its terrier heritage. And while the Yorkie has a tendency to bark excessively, making it an excellent watch dog, it can be trained to remain quiet as well.

Care
The Yorkie loves to exercise, often playing indoors without much encouragement. It should regularly be taken outside for short leash-led walks, however. The dog's long coat requires brushing or combing every other day to avoid tangles ot rubbish getting caught up in the coat. The Yorkshire Terrier is primarily an indoor dog - it is not a breed that should be allowed to live outdoors.

Health
The Yorkie, with a lifespan of approximately 14 to 16 years, is prone to minor health problems, such as patellar luxation. Occasionally, tracheal collapse, portacaval shunt, progressive retinal atrophy (PRA), Legg-Perthes disease are seen in this breed. To identify some of these issues, a veterinarian may run eye and knee tests, along with a liver ultrasound.

History and Background
Originating in England’s Yorkshire area, the Yorkshire Terrier does not resemble a ratter or a working dog, but it is a combination of both. It was believed that the Yorkie was not produced accidentally, but came to be through intentional crosbreeding of a wide range of terriers, including the Clydesdale Waterside, Paisley, Skye, Dandie Dinmont, and rough-coated Black and Tan English Terriers. Among its most important progenitors, the Waterside Terrier was a small blue-gray dog with long hair, weighing between 6 and 20 pounds (most commonly about 10 pounds). It was brought to Yorkshire by weavers who migrated from Scotland to England in the mid-19th century.

Initially, wealthy dog fanciers despised the Yorkshire Terrier because of its humble roots. However, it wasn't long before the Yorkie graced the stage at dog shows and became the lap dog of choice for the British elite, mostly due to its beauty, elegance, and size.

The Yorkie was introduced to the United States in 1872, but there was confusion early on about the dog's standard size. The weight of early Yorkies ballooned to as much as 12 or 14 pounds. By 1900, Yorkie fanciers in England and America set a preferable standard size -- an average of three to seven pounds in weight. The combination of its size and its terrier traits, make this beautiful lap dog a wonderful pet addition for any family today.

For most pet owners, it is obvious that cats and dogs all have unique personalities and social quirks; that’s part of what makes them so endearing to have as companions. Perhaps most people realize that horses, although considered large animals, have their own personalities as well. But what about the quintessential livestock animal, the cow? Do these herd-oriented animals actually have personalities? Do they make friends? Do they hold grudges? As it turns out, the answer to all these questions is yes.

Over the past few decades, research into the behavior of cattle, especially dairy cattle, has shown these animals have a surprisingly complex social life. This, of course, is no news to the dairy farmer, who, through years of closely working with these animals day after day, knows which are the calm ones, which are the skittish ones, which get lonely, which are crafty, and which are just plain mean. And if you’re on good terms with these dairy farmers, they’ll usually let you know as you’re walking into the barn for an appointment which cow you’re getting ready to work on and if you’re going to have a good day or a bad day because of her.

At the risk of sounding cynical, most of this research stems from devising ways to save money in the milking parlor. If cows are stressed, their milk production is affected, so can social change stress cows? Studies say yes. Once in a herd, cows develop a social hierarchy. There are even what are called “boss cows” at the apex of this social ladder. These are the cows that push their way through to the feed bunk no matter who is in their way and, sorry ladies, no one is getting seconds until these queens of the corral have had their fill.

As you might imagine, it takes time for the intricacies of the social ladder to be worked out within a herd. If cows are moved from one barn to another frequently, this social stress can start to affect their well-being. Reestablishing who’s who in a crowd can lead to tension, stress, and the release of cortisol, the stress hormone that’s been shown to have detrimental effects on milk production.

If cows are allowed to choose where they rest in a free-stall barn (a common type of dairy barn that has many different stalls where the cows themselves choose where to rest), they will choose to rest near acquaintances, not strangers. Boss cows will often rest near other boss cows, with the mid-level and bottom-level animals more commonly associating with others of their “class.”

One study identified three different social structures within a dairy herd: a milking order, a leadership-followership pattern, and a dominance hierarchy, suggesting that the social dynamic isn’t just a social ladder, but rather a more complicated web. Social dynamics affect the order cows enter the milking parlor twice a day, who follows who in the field and around the barn, and who gets pushed out of the way when push comes to shove.

An interesting side note, in case you were wondering, is that studies have shown that social dominance does not appear to influence milk production. A boss cow is just as likely to produce the same amount of milk as a lower-ranked cow in the herd. Instead, milk production is influenced much more by breed genetics (milk production of the parents, grandparents, etc.), health, type of diet, and overall farm management.

So next time you happen to drive by a pastoral scene of green grass and happily grazing Holsteins, you might stop to consider the fact that all things may not be as peaceful as they seem. My conclusion from these studies is that dairy cows are prone to gossip.